44TH DAY

44th DAY (AUGUST 14TH) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 26 MILES BEGINNING AT THE GRAVESITE OF PRVT. JAMES KING ON THE NEMO ROAD. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 6.5 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF AUGUST 14TH ARE: PIEDMONT QUADRANGLE; BALCK HAWK QUADRANGLE; FT. MEADE S.E. QUADRANGLE; TILFORD QUADRANGLE AND FT. MEADE QUADRANGLE. PICTURE BY ILLINGSWORTH IS #851, "BEAR BUTTE."

#1 Latitude N44 08 21
Longitude W103 23 26

This is the same reading as designated gravesite of Prvt. James King. No evidence of the exact campsite was found.

Grant stated, " Cpt. Benteen, before leaving camp this morning buried the man who died last night."

Forsyth said, " Started at 4 am and moved directly East across the outer range of mountains finding a good road up onto their crest."

Proceed toward Rapid City on the Nemo Road for about one mile to the Potter Road (L231).

#2 Latitude N44 07 45
Longitude W103 22 20

Turn North, (left) on Potter Rd. (L231) to a reading of:

#3 Latitude N44 08 15
Longitude W103 22 20

Readings #4 and #5 are on private land. Reading #6 and beyond are on Forest Service land.

#4 Latitude N44 08 10
Longitude W103 22 01

According to Winchell, " Breaking camp before sunrise, we descend an easy slope towards the East, formed by the dip of the rock. When we come within three quarters of a mile facing upon a North and South ridge formed by the overlying sandstone capped with a few feet of a carboniferous limestone. Here we turn South to pass it. I make this sandstone to be about 75 feet. There is here also a thickness of about twenty feet of limestone overlying. The latter gives form and sharpness of the ridge. The dip in this part of the Hills is much greater than in the North and resembles that along French Creek. We do not go far South but turn to the North and Northeast climbing at last over this ridge."

#5 Latitude N44 08 15
Longitude W103 21 58

Continue up the valley to the following reading:

#6 Latitude N44 08 20
Longitude W103 21 46

#7 Latitude N44 08 21
Longitude W103 21 52

Continue following the tracks through these readings:

#8 Latitude N44 08 25
Longitude W103 21 44

This reading is on Forest Service land. The trail here is hard to determine,
this section shows use by others after 1874.

#9 Latitude N44 08 25
Longitude W103 21 47

At the next reading, ruts and tracks of the expedition are visible going in an
Easterly direction, trees are growing in the ruts.

# 10 Latitude N44 08 26
Longitude W103 21 38

#11 Latitude N44 08 28
Longitude W103 21 51

The trail turns Northwest and is approaching the rocky ridges of the top.

#12 Latitude N44 08 34
Longitude W103 21 50

This is private land and it is recommended that you return to the car and
approach from Woodland Development. Return to Rapid City by way of
Nemo Rd. (Hwy 2335) and take Sturgis Rd. (Hwy. 79) North to the North
side of Black Hawk and turn West (left) on Rte.149 which is the Peaceful
Pines Rd.

#13 Latitude N44 09 17
Longitude W103 18 37

Peaceful Pines Rd. becomes the Wonderland Rd. at this reading:

# 14 Latitude N44 09 22
Longitude W103 20 48

The total distance traveled from the beginning of Peaceful Pines Rd. to the
dead-end of Wonderland Rd. is three miles.

# 15 Latitude N44 09 06
Longitude W103 22 19

At this point, park the car and walk South through the National Forest gate
Rte. 777. The old trail follows the high ridge between steep valleys.
Proceed to reading:

#16 Latitude N44 08 56
Longitude W103 22 13

This is a very steep grade. Bear in mind the wagons of the expedition would have been descending this hill.

# 17 Latitude N44 08 47
Longitude W103 22 01

The trail is on the top of this ridge.

#18 Latitude N44 08 40
Longitude W103 21 52

Continue Southeast and you should recognize #12 (Latitude N44 08 34 and Latitude W103 21 50).

Forsyth commented here, "We moved directly East, across the outer range of mountains finding a good road up onto their crest."

Return to the car at reading #15 (Latitude N44 09 06 and Latitude W103 22 19). At the the site of the car proceed on foot up the hill to the North to:

#19 Latitude N44 09 09
Longitude W103 22 19

Continue up the hill to the reading:

#20 Latitude N44 09 19
Longiutde W103 22 13

We are now up on a ridge with the trail heading East. This should not be confused with the trail that continues West. After 1874, this trail had use as
a means of going from the present Piedmont area to the Box Elder drainage
by way of Custer Gap.

Continue East approximately 200 yards to the following reading:

#21 Latitude N44 09 20
Longitude W103 22 04

Notice that this trail following the ridge East is similar to the previous ridge which Custer followed West. Return to the car and proceed East on Wonderland Rd. to the intersection of Lark and Wonderland Rd. at the reading:

#22 Latitude N44 09 20
Longitude W103 21 37

Turn left (West) and drive about 550 yards to this reading:

#23 Latitude N44 09 18
Longitude W103 22 00

Park to the South of the green,water storage tanks and leave the car. Walk along the fence line which is West of the water tanks to the National Forest boundary sign. Follow the visible trail to the Northwest to this reading:

#24 Latitude N44 09 21
Longitude W103 22 05

Walk about 100 yards. At this point, reading #21 (Latitude N44 09 20 and Longitude W103 22 04) will be West up the ridge. The visible trail on the South side of the ridge running West, was constructed at a later date. The trail is to the East at this reading:

#25 Latitude N44 09 20
Longitude W103 21 51

At this point the trail enters private property. Return to the car and drive East on Wonderland Rd. to this reading:

#26 Latitude N44 09 20
Longitude W103 21 02

To the South of the road, are several Ponderosa pines growing in a straight row. They are growing in the ruts left by Custer's expedition.
Forsyth describes this trail "... thence across a very pretty park-like country and down a long divide into a valley hemmed in by a few out-lying hills of the range."

Continue on Wonderland Rd. to a reading of:

#27 Latitude N44 09 25
Longitude W103 20 44

Ruts are visible on the North side of the road. Proceed on Wonderland Rd. to:

#28 Latitude N44 09 23
Longitude W103 20 34

Park the car and proceed down the unimproved road to the following reading where ruts are visible:

#29 Latitude N44 09 44
Longitude W103 20 32

Return to the car and go to the intersection of Hwy. 79 and Rte 149 which is #13 Latitude N44 09 17 and Longitude W103 18 37.Turn North on Hwy 79 and proceed one mile and turn West on Forest Service road 126 (also known as Anderson Rd.).

#30 LatitudeN44 10 11
Longitude W103 19 17

Proceed West to the end of Anderson Rd. at this reading:

#31 Latitude N44 10 11
Longitude W103 20 10

At this point, the road North is a private road. At the end of this road at reading:

#32 Latitude N44 10 24
Longitude W103 20 14

The trail enters the flat lands of the "Race-Track."

Winchell stated, " We then strike the valley of Red Beds and follow it North about six miles where we cross Elk Creek and pass to the East of the ridge formed by the Dakota sandstone."

According to Ludlow, " And early in the day we suddenly emerged from the Hills into the encircling Red Clay Valley which at this point is clearly bordered by the open prairie. The scorching sun and the hot, dry breath of the prairie covered with yellow grass bore instant witness to the change in our surroundings: recalling vividly the coolness of air and freshness of vegetation-the abundance of pure cold water - the noble camp-fires and quantities of game which had made our stay in the Hills a daily delight. And compelling us to contrast the dry, dusty journies, the warm alkaline water and scanty wood which awaited us on the return march of our 280 miles. The course lay up the Red Clay Valley to the North and West, the numerous creeks in the Hills reaching the prairie, sank beneath the gravel and shingle of these beds and disappeared. Some of them reappeared briefly in the form of springs in the Red Clay Valley which was from two to three miles in width - On account of these springs and the occasional marshy ground the trail broke through the low hills separating the valley from the prairie on the East."

Custer's reports stated, " In front of us, as we cast our eyes over the plains below we saw nothing but a comparatively parched, dried surface. The sun burnt pasturage which offered a most uninviting prospect both to horse and rider, when remembering the rich abundance we were leaving behind us."

Forsyth said, " Move North for about six miles finding some beautiful springs and thence East across the foot-hills out onto the plains near the base of Bear Butte, we all leave the Black Hills with regret for we have enjoyed them very much. The scenery is beautiful, grass splendid, water fine and climate delightful. I hope to see the day when there will be any number of brave settlers and fine farms there.

According to Grant, " Went out of the Black Hills onto the plains and camped within five miles of Bear Butte. Passed a large valley today completely full of clear and very cold springs."

Proceed East on Anderson Rd. to the Heritage Trailer Park at Borden Lane at a reading of:

#33 Latitude N44 10 11
Longitude W103 19 54

Drive North on Borden Lane to a reading of:

#34 Latitude N44 10 17
Longitude W103 20 00

The South Dakota State Historical Society has erected a marker indicating
Custer's 1874 expedition.

Return to the intersection of Andersen Rd. and Hwy 79. This is the same reading as #30 (Latitude N44 10 11 and Longitude W103 19 17). Come out in the same place as was entered. Turn left (North) proceed to Interstate 90 access #44. The indication of the trail in this area cannot be verified because of the development that has taken place since the expedition in 1874.

#35 Latitude N44 14 26
Longitude W103 23 25

This is the site of the U.S. Gypsum Co.'s plant. The plant operated from 1916 to 1948 and produced 200,000 tons of gypsum. At present, gypsum is supplied to the S.D. Cement plant from this area.

According to Winchell, " In the Red Beds I noticed the white gypsum today that abounds in the same bed in the Northern part of the Hills and which was also seen in the Southern part. Thus it appears that the gypsiferous character of Hills."

#36 Latitude N44 14 32
Longitude W103 23 47

This is the intersection of Interstate 90 access #44 and the Piedmont
Cemetary Rd. which is also known as the Elk Creek Rd. proceed East
to :

#37 Latitude N44 14 42
Longitude W103 23 04

Please note that the Latitude reading is North of the road and on private land.
Ruts show just North of the stock dam.

#38 Latitude N44 14 33
Longitude W103 22 02

This reading is just East of the Elk Creek crossing, ruts are visible coming
from the North. Custer's wagon train would have had to avoid swampy
conditions in this area.

Proceed East to the following reading:

#39 Latitude N44 14 26
Longitude W103 21 31

Deep ruts can be seen on the hillside North of the road. Drive East to the next reading:

#40 Latitude N44 14 24
Longitude W103 21 19

At this point the trail turns North with ruts still visible on the hillside.

#41 Latitude N44 14 29
Longitude W103 21 23

The ruts show the trail leading North, at this point the trail enters private
property and continues North through the woods. Return to I-90 and
the same reading as #35 (Latitude N44 14 32 and Longitude W103
23 47). Drive North in I-90 to the Tilford Exit (#40).

#42 Latitude N44 18 00
Longitude W103 25 59

Turn right (East) on the Tilford Rd. and drive about four miles which will be at the following reading:

#43 Latitude N44 18 04
Longitude W103 21 35

On the South side of the road is a valley leading up to a saddle between Morris Creek and Pleasant Valley Creek. This is the most likely route of the expedition, however, no tracks are visible on this private land. Return to I-90 and the same reading as #42 (Latitude N44 18 00 and Longitude W103 25 59). Proceed North on I-90 to exit #37.

#44 Latitude N44 20 40
Longitude W103 26 50

Take the Pleasant Valley Rd. East about one and one half miles to the
reading:

#45 Latitude N44 20 55
Longitude W103 24 33

No tracks are visible and this is private land. North of the road is a likely
draw leading towards Custer's camp of Aug. 14th

Winchell states, " Reaching soon another [creek] known as Bear Creek;"
today known as Morris Creek, " here we pass still further East and enter on
the Fort Benton [formation] and immediately encounter another creek that
comes from the Northwest namely on the Fort Benton. This creek has a
wide valley which runs North and South or very nearly in that direction
excavated in the Fort Benton. The upper part of this valley comes from
the Northwest and heads in the Hills but we continue on the Fort Benton
to the camp. "

Return to I-90 which is the same as #44 (Latitude N 44 20 40 and
Latitude W103 26 50). Proceed North on I-90 to the Sturgis Exit #32.
Continue to the junction of Hwy. 34. Turn right (East) and follow Hwy.
34 for four miles to the junction of Hwy 34 and the Alkali Rd.

#46 Latitude N44 25 00
Longitude W103 25 41

Drive South 1.7 miles to the plaque marking the campground of Aug.14.

#47 Latitude N44 23 30
Longitude W103 25 43

Ludlow, the engineer, reports the camp of Aug. 14, 1874 at:

#48 Latitude N44 23 43
Longitude W103 25 19

Winchell says, " We are six miles South of Bear Butte which is plainly visible and has been for ten or twelve miles. About three miles before reaching camp we struck the black or purplish black slate that we had at our first crossing of the Belle Fourche."

According to Ludlow, " Camp was made on a creek named for the Butte and six or seven miles South of it." This is known today as Alkali Creek.

Grant stated in his report, " We had several miners along that had nothing
to lose and everything to gain; they all lived together and could concoct any
plan they wished after we got near Harney's Peak they said they found gold. Now the country in that region is full of mica schist and very coarse feldsparthie granite. I have been in and around a great many gold and silver mines in my life and have never seen this class of stone on mining grounds. Also they came each day and showed specimens and would say ' I got this from one pan of earth today' and I noticed that they showed the same peices everyday. Then they told about what could be produced saying that one man could get from ten to one hundred dollars a day. I saw about all the gold that was produced in the hands of different miners, and I don't believe that there was two dollars all put together and that they took out there with them. I washed for gold once myself and could not get a color. There's a small extent of country around Harney's Peak in which there is reason to believe that there could be some gold found though there could not be much. It is in the Indian country where it would be dangerous for white people to go. I don't believe any gold was found at all."

However Custer's report of his trip through the Black Hills refuted this, "This expedition entered the Black Hills from the West side, penetrated through the Eastern and most Southern ranges, explored the major portions of the interior and passed out the most Eastern ranges which form the boundary of the Black Hills. From the fact that in our principal marches through the Black Hills, we have taken without serious obstacle a heavily laden train of over one hundred wagons, it may be inferred that the Black Hillls did not constitute the impenetrable region here-to-for represented, in entering the Black Hills from any direction, the most serious, if not the only, obstacles were encountered at once near the outer base. This probably accounts for the mystery which has so long existed regarding the character of the interior. Exploring parties have contented themselves with marching around the exterior base and from the forbidding aspect of the Hills as viewed at a distance inferred that an advance towards the interior would only encounter increased obstacles. In regard to the character of the country enclosed by the Black Hills I can only repeat what I have stated in previous dispatches. No portion of the United States can boast of a richer or better pasturage, purer water, the natural temperature of which in mid-summer as it flows from the Earth is but twelve degrees above the freezing point and of greater advantage generally to the farmer or stock-raiser than are to be found in the Black Hills. Building stone of the best quality is to be found in inexhaustible quantities. Wood for fuel, and lumber sufficient for all time to come.

Rains are frequent, with no evidence in the country of either droughth or freshets [heavy rains]. The season perhaps is too short, and the nights too cool, for corn, but I believe all other grain could be produced here in wonderful abundance. Wheat would particularly yield largely. There is no doubt as to the existence of various minerals throughout the Hills, as this subject has received special attention of experts who accompany the expedition and will be reported upon in detail. I will only mention the fact that iron and plumbago have been found and beds of gypsum of apparently of inexhaustible extent. I referred in a former dispatch to the discovery of gold. Subsequent examinations at numerous points confirm and strengthen the fact of the existence of gold in the Black Hills. On some of the water courses almost every panful of earth produced gold in small yet paying quantities. Our brief halts and rapid marching prevented anything but a very hasty examination of the country in this respect, but in one place and the only one within my knowledge where so great a depth was reached a hole was dug eight feet in depth. The miners report that they found gold among the roots of the grass, and from that point to the lowest point reached gold was found in paying quantities. It has not required an expert to find gold in the Black Hills, as men without former experience in mining have discovered it at an expense of but little time or labor. As evidence of the rich pasturage to be found in the region, I can state the fact that my beef herd, after marching upwards of six hundred miles is in better condition that when I started, being now as fat as is consistent with marching condition. The same may be said of the mules of the wagon train. The horses of the command are in good working condition. I have never seen as many deer as in the Black Hills, elk and bear have also been killed. We've had no collision with hostile Indians."

Due to the conflicting reports about gold from Custer's expedition, the government authorized another expedition in 1875 to map and explore the Black Hills to determine the existence of gold.

This concludes this interpretation of Custer's 1874 expedition through the Black Hills.