40TH AND 41ST DAYS
40TH AND 41 ST DAYS (AUGUST 10 and 11TH) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 7.5 MILES BETWEEN CAMPS AT LITTLE ELK CREEK AND THE JUNCTION OF ESTES CREEK AND BOX ELDER CREEK. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 24 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF AUGUST 10TH AND 11TH ARE: DEADMAN MOUNTAIN QUADRANGLE; NEMO QUADRANGLE; AND PIEDMONT QUADRANGLE. ILLINGSWORTH PICTURES ARE: #848 "GREEN TOP" AND #849 "WHITE MANSION."
#1 Latitude N44 15 10
Longitude W103 31 41
Winchell reported, " Left camp site at 5:30 a.m. and leaving
camp we turn South and come within a mile upon hills and ridges
that are capped with limestone."
Ludlow wrote, " The route was Southerly crossing a low ridge and taking the head of a creek flowing a little East of South. "
Proceed South on 135 to the junction of 136. A short distance West of the junction ruts from the expedition run North and South crossing Forest Rte. 136 at:
#2 Latitude N44 15 06
Longitude W103 31 40
Continue South on 135 to the intersection of Dalton Lake Rd.
(Forest Rte. 224). Tracks are visible on the West side of route
135 up the hill to the South at reading:
#3 Latitude N44 14 35
Longitude W103 31 41
Continue South on 135. Ruts on private land are visible in a draw West of Forest Rte.135 at reading:
#4 Latitude N44 14 08
Longitude W103 31 28
To obtain a view of the trail that passes between Green Top and White Mansion, drive South on 135 to the junction of Nemo Rd. (Hwy 2335) at:
#5 Latitude N44 12 02
Longitude W103 30 10
Turn right (Northwest) and drive one mile to Forest Rd. 414 (6K) and turn North at a reading of:
#6 Latitude N44 12 40
Longitude W103 31 08
Follow the road bearing to the right to:
#7 Latitude N44 13 52
Longitude W103 31 29
Park the car and hike in the valley where ruts are visible between two prominent hills (Green Top and White Mansion). Walk South in the ruts to:
#8 Latitude N44 13 23
Longitude W103 31 15
Continue following the ruts to:
#9 Latitude N44 13 06
Longitude W103 31 06
At this location, the ruts tend to disappear. Illingsworth took two pictures of Green Top and White Mansion from near the top of the formation to the Southeast at:
#10 Latitude N44 12 54
Longitude W103 30 41
The one photo, #848 shows only Green Top and it is likely that Illingsworth was attempting to photograph Custer Peak in the distant West. Return to the car and drive to Nemo Rd. (Hwy 2335) and proceed Southeast to junction of Forest Rte. 135, which is the same as #5 at:
#11 Latitude N44 12 02
Longitude W103 30 10
Evidence of the trail is South of 135 and near the bottom of the slope on the East side of Hwy 2335. Continue South on 2335, which follows Box Elder Creek and passes through the town of Nemo. Most evidence of the trail has been eliminated through road and ranching development.
Grant described this area as," Marched through a most beautiful valley today. The stream the largest we have seen in the Black Hills. A great many deer killed and three elk, one with splendid antlers. "
Forsyth report states, " We moved into a fine valley about 1/2 mile wide with a splendid stream of water running through it and covered with the finest kind of grass."
Ludlow reported, " Following down the valley we found it enlarging to a broad, fertile meadow, luxuriant grasses through which runs the creek a fine rapid stream ten to twelve feet wide flowing over a rock bed. We are continually looking for trout in this stream which seems as though made expressly for that fish which requires an unfailing flow of cold pure water. There could be no finer trout streams in the world than these were they once stocked. As it was, we found nothing but some small chub and the species of sucker of perhaps a pound in weight."
Continue on to:
#12 Latitude N44 10 28
Longitude W103 29 46
The road to the East leads to a hill containing iron ore that is actively mined and used in the production of certain cements.
Winchell reported, " There seems to be an abundance of this iron ore along the valley. Whether it extends any distance towards the West, I have no opportunity to ascertain but probably it continues as far as the formation of its seams to be a metamorphic condition."
Ruts are visible near the bottom of the slope on either side of the road to the mine. The camp of August 10-11 was in the junction of Estes and Box Elder Creek near the following reading:
#13 Latitude N44 10 24
Longitude W103 29 27
Ludlow, the engineer, recorded a reading for the camp of August 10-11 on a high hill to the West at:
#14 Latitude N44 09 53
Longitude W103 30 16
Many of the camp readings recorded did not coincide with the actual campsite, as they had to take readings from an unobstructed view of the stars from a high point near camp.
Winchell reported, " We find difficulty in getting out directly with the train and General Custer will take tomorrow to prepare a road."
Ludlow said, " Taking advantage of the command remaining in camp while General Custer made explorations for a road Eastwardly I returned to the camp of the day before with a surveying party for the purpose of measuring a base line and locating with the transit important elevations. A base of 3,200' was carefully layed out whence two hills were located from the summits of which Bear Butte, Harney, Terry and Custer peak and many minor hills could be seen and their aszmuths determined."
If you look North by West back up the valley, you will see two prominent peaks...Green Top and White Mansion...which are probably the two peaks referenced by Ludlow. Illingsworth may also have returned with Ludlow where he took the pictures of White Mansion and Green Top.
Ludlow reported, " Returning to camp I found that several
elk had been killed during the day by the hunters."