39TH DAY

39TH DAY (AUG. 9) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HlLLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 7.5 MlLES BETWEEN CAMPS AT HAY MEADOWS JUST UPSTREAM FROM REAUSAW LAKE AND lNTERSECTION OF LITTLE ELK CANYON AND ROUTE 135. STARTlNG POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 30 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF AUGUST 9TH ARE: DEADMAN MOUNTAIN QUADRANGLE, AND NEMO QUADRANGLE. ILLlNGSWORTH PICTURE OF THIS IS #850, "FORSYTH'S GLENN."

#1 Latitude N44 15 14
Longitude W103 37 17

The expedition left the campsite at Hay Meadow upstream from Reausaw Lake on the South side of Nemo Rd. (County Hwy 2335)

Forsyth commented, " ...moved at 4:45 am due East along the bank of the creek upon which we had been encamped, passing three of the largest beaver dams I had ever seen, thence North and again East."

Look for evidence of the old beaver dams in this area. Proceed East on County Hwy 2335 about .75 miles to:

#2 Latitude N44 15 06
Longitude W103 36 33

Ludlow's journal reported, " The course lay down the valley- which was in
possession of the beaver for several miles - then turned to the left over a
ridge."

Grinnell also reported, "...the beaver were also numerous in the Hills as their dams and houses in many of the streams were witness."

Tracks are visible on the North side of the road. Go East .6 mile to:

#3 Latitude N44 14 48
Longitude W103 35 44

Tracks are visible on the North side of the road.

Winchell wrote, " We are in a beautiful, grassed valley through which runs a
creek. The edges of the valley are clothed with Norway pine, but the hills about
are generally very barren and desolate."

Proceed to the following reading:

#4 Latitude N44 14 40
Longitude W103 35 05

The trail here leads up the draw to the North. This is on private land.

Winchell reported, " We leave the creek and go more to the North through the same sort of country."

This draw can be approached from the upper end. Stay on Nemo Rd. to Forest Rte. 151 about .9 miles to:

#5 Latitude N44 14 06
Longitude W103 34 26

Drive North on 151 2 miles to:

#6 Latitude N44 15 33
Longitude W103 35 15

Park the car and walk to the West about 50 yards to find the next reading:

#7 Latitude N44 15 24
Longitude W103 35 24

Look for the obliterated trail coming up from the valley running South to North.

Winchell reported, "...about three miles from camp we ascend a grassy knoll from which can be seen ahead, a mile distance, a few hills capped with stratified limestone. This is towards the North East...toward the North no limestone is visible, but to the West the line of limestone bluffs can be seen about fifteen miles away."

Return to the car and drive North to the following reading:

#8 Latitude N44 15 46
Longitude W103 35 24

Ruts are on the right side of the road heading down the drainage.

#9 Latitude N44 15 58
Longitude W103 35 32

Turn right (East) on Forest Rte. 136 and park. If it is near lunch time carry your lunch with you. Walk down the drainage to the North, look for the trail at the following reading:

#10 Latitude N44 16 04
Longitude W103 35 13

Grinnell wrote, " The white tail deer were very numerous about the head of
Elk Creek and indeed all through the North Eastern portion of the Hills. It was said that 100 deer principally of this species were killed by the Command August 9th..."

Follow the drainage North to reading:

#11 Latitude N44 16 15
Longitude W103 35 01

At this reading we are on the South bank of Meadow Creek. Look for signs of the trail running downstream. Some trail construction was required by Custer's advance trail crew called the "Pioneers". Continue to the next reading:

#12 Latitude N44 16 14
Longitude W103 34 44

The trail, although not visible here, continues down the valley to the following reading:

#13 LatitudeN44 16 15
Longitude W103 34 30

The trail is on the East side of Meadow Creek and very near the tree line. Return to the car and proceed East on Forest Serivce Rte. 136 to the intersection of 136 and Forest Rte. 135 (black top road) at:

#14 Latitude N44 15 06
Longitude W103 31 40

Turn left (North) and continue 2.6 miles to intersection 135 and Forest Rte. at:

#15 Latitude N44 16 32
Longitude W103 33 15

Turn left (West) and continue to the intersection of unimproved roads at:

#16 Latitude N44 16 24
Longitude W103 33 31

Find a suitable place to the park the car and proceed down the draw to the North towards the next reading, (Custer's tracks should be visible running North to South coming up the draw):

#17 Latitude N44 16 31
Longitude W103 33 41

The tracks in this area are deep and filled with dead timber. The next reading
is in the Meadow Creek area and at present is a private golf course:

# 18 Latitude N44 16 45
Longitude W103 33 51

Looking upstream will connect you with the reading #12.

Comments on this area were made by Custer, " We advanced without
serious obstacle until within 10 or 12 miles of Bear Butte when we found
our further progress barred by a high range of impassable hills. We
attempted to effect a passage through some one of the many valleys whose
water courses ran directly through the hills in the desired direction but in
every instance we were lead into deep broken canyons impassable even
to horsemen."

Winchell reported," We turned South again, camped early in a wide grassy
valley about six miles from our last nights camp. This is owing to the
impractability of the country East and North East for the train."

Ludlow wrote, " The creeks flowed Eastward and in piercing through the
outer range of hills had cut deep canyons which were often blocked by
boulders and fallen trees."

Return to the car. Now follow the unimproved road South into the
Little Elk Creek drainage to reading:

#19 Latitude N44 16 11
Longitude W103 33 11

Tracks are visible on the right side of the road. Continue on the next reading:

#20 Latitude N44 16 01
Longitude W103 32 59

The tracks are visible on the right side of the road and although not visible
will continue down the valley towards the campsite which can be seen from
the other end. However, return now to reading #15. If a better view is desired of the problems encountered by the expedition in Meadow Creek, continue North on 135 to the junction of Meadow Creek and Elk Creek at the following reading:

#21 Latitude N44 17 41
Longitude W103 33 29

Notice the deep gorge and boulders in this area. Turn around here and drive 2.5 miles South on Forest Rte. 135 into the meadows of Little Elk Creek at:

#22 LatitudeN44 15 10
Longitude W103 31 41

Here you will find a large spring 50 yards West of the road and on the South
side of Little Elk Creek drainage.

Although Ludlow did not report a campground reading for Aug. 9, General Forsyth reported, " ...we camped upon a beautiful stream fed by an immense spring of the coldest water save ice water I ever drank."

Winchell wrote of this area also, " Just below our camp about a mile is an outcrop of what appears like a fine grained granite somewhat shistose."

This outcrop mentioned by Winchell can be viewed by driving South on 135 to the junction of 224. Turn East and drive 1 mile to the following reading where you are again in Little Elk Creek conyon:

#23 Latitude N44 14 48
Longitude W103 30 45

This is a likely spot for Illingsworth to have taken Picture #850, "Forsyth's
Glenn."