38TH DAY
38TH DAY (AUG. 8TH) OF CUSTER EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 14.7 MILES BETWEEN CAMPS AT NAHANT 4 MILES NORTH OF ROCHFORD AND HAY MEADOW, 6 MlLES NORTH OF NEMO ON NEMO RD. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 42 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF AUG. 8TH ARE: MINNESOTA RIDGE QUADRANGLE, NAHANT QUADRANGLE, AND DEADWOOD SOUTH QUADRANGLE.
#1 Latitude N44 10 42
Longitude W103 45 22
This is the junction of North Rapid Creek and Swede Gulch. Look for the concrete marker indicating where the bear was shot. It was placed by Lawrence County Historical Society.
Grinnells' report on the grizzly stated, " Although we saw indications of the presence of large numbers of grizzlys during our march through the Black Hills, only a few were killed chiefly from lack of time to devote to their capture. The first one killed secumbed by General Custer and Col. Ludlow. It was a very old male, the canine teeth being mere broken stumps, many of the incisors gone and the molars worn down almost to the gums. In color it was everywhere a deep glossy black on the head and on the lower part of the shoulder and thighs, where there was a slight sprinkling of dark gray hairs. The old veteran bore on his body the marks of many a conflict. On his back just behind the shoulders was a rugged scar ten inches long and two wide, his face was marked in several places and his thighs and sides were disfigured in the same manner."
The trail leads North (trail is obliterated by the road and railroad bed) following the North fork of Rapid Creek to Gudat Gulch near Bull Dog Ranch on the East side of Rochford Hwy. and Forest Service Rd. 206 intersection. At this point, the trail turns Northeast and heads up Gudat Gulch.
#1A Latitude N44 11 10
Longitude W103 45 28
Custer's route in this valley can be viewed from the George S. Mickelson bike trail.
Ludlow reported, "The morning opened with thick fog which cleared about 10 a.m."
#1B Latitude N44 11 32
Longitude W103 45 36
Three sets of ruts at 30 feet, 50 feet, and 75 feet West of the bike trail.
#1C Latitude N44 12 06
Longitude W103 45 49
Custer's route in this valley can be viewed from the George S. Mickelson bike trail.
#1D Latitude N44 12 21
Longitude W103 46 03
Trail is visible 50 feet West of bike trail.
#2 Latitude N44 12 32
Longitude W103 46 03
This is Gudat Gulch.
According to Forsyth, "Got off at 4:30 a.m. moving along the banks of the stream upon which we had camped, and moved away east of it, up a ravine, out on to a high rolling country."
The trail is on the North side of the drainage and continues over private land Northeast. Return to the car and approach the trail again from the East side of the ridge near Custer Peak. Cut across the Custer Crossing Rd. between Rochford Hwy. and Hwy. 385...go North on 385 to the Custer Peak Rd. at Forest Service Rd. 216:
Ludlow stated, "The course was North and East crossing several creeks leading eastwardly."
Winchell, the geologist, reported, "In leaving camp we climbed with the train, the hills on the east of the creek, and find an open undulating country stretching off Northeast, and travel in that direction."
#3 Latitude N44 15 02
Longitude W103 41 42
Go West to the junction at:
#4 Latitude N44 14 08
Longitude W103 43 35
This is where the road turns up to Custer Peak. Follow this road to the first left turn at:
#5 Latitude N44 14 30
Longitude W103 44 31
Turn left which will take you up to the top of the ridge just Southwest of Custer Peak, where an unimproved road goes South at the following reading:
#6 Latitude N44 14 02
Longitude W103 44 45
Continue on to the saddle at:
#7 Latitude N44 13 51
Longtiude W103 44 32
This is where the first view of the prairie to the East is seen.
As reported by Winchell,"...at this point we get a view of a very small area of the plains...a line of limestone bluffs is plainly visible about 5 miles away toward the West but Northwest there is a single bluff or peak capped with limestone not more than four miles away. (possibly Terry Peak) In the distance [Southeast] before us but on this side of the open ground can be seen a ridge of white rock rising some distance above the general surface and obtaining an elevation of about 100'. This ridge seems to run North and South." [this view is obscured by present day forest density]
The trail descends down the West side at:
#8 Latitude N44 13 47
Longitude W103 44 42
Trail continues down to:
#9 Latitude N44 13 48
Longitude W103 44 45
Grant reported, "We passed large beds of Potsdam sand-stone. Some of the mica schist had a large percentage of iron in it."
Looking down the valley to the West, the trail extends through
private land to
the following readings:
#10 Latitude N44 13 14
Longitude W103 45 12
#11 Latitude N44 12 58
Longitude W103 45 35
Return to the ridge saddle. Continue to the following reading where the trail descends down the East slope towards North Box Elder Creek:
#12 Latitude N44 14 02
Longitude W103 44 31
Winchell stated, "After passing a smooth divide we began a descent toward the East. Before us lies an almost treeless, level tract, distant three or four miles. bounded beyond (East) by a range of low, wooded hills. This treeless area is underlain taltose slate, and the vertical beds rise sometimes above the surface, in sharp and angular ridges."
Continue down the slope and notice the deep ruts with signs of erosion located at the following reading:
#13 Latitude N44 14 01
Longitude W103 43 45
According to Forsyth, "Moved east into a small valley in which was a running stream, which skirted for some miles."
Continue down the slope. Near the North Box Elder Creek the
trail
turns South. At the following reading there is also evidence
of the
"Salt Trail" which turns North and heads towards Custer
Peak;
#14 Latitude N44 13 59
Longitude W103 43 40
Return to the car at the top of the ridge. Go back to 385
and South to the
Custer crossing junction at:
#15 Latitude N44 13 18
Longitude W103 40 07
Follow the Custer Crossing road West to Forest Rd. 688 at:
#16 Latitude N44 12 22
Longitude W103 41 40
Follow this road Northwest for about 1.9 miles to a T-junction at the following reading where you will turn right (North) at 219E:
#17 Latitude N44 13 05
Longitude W103 43 40
At this location you will notice some flat red sandstone rocks described by geologist Winchell. As you proceed North you will find good tracks on the West side of the road at the following reading:
# 18 Latitude N44 13 16
Longitude W103 43 27
Grant stated, "A great many deer were killed. Had planty of good water through this part of the country."
#19 Latitude N44 13 27
Longtiude W103 43 28
#20 Latitude N44 13 34
Longitude W103 43 35
At this reading, turn around and return to the T-junction (#17) The Salt Trail joins here coming from the West. By continuing on 219 to the West from the T-junction for about .5 mile to the following reading you will find the J H D Spring which was an overnight stop on the Salt Trail:
#21 Latitude N44 13 06
Longitude W103 43 54
The Salt Trail was from Cambria, WY near Newcastle, WY to Galena, SD. Near Cambria, salt was produced and transported to mines near Galena. This was used in the recovery of minerals. This trail was in use around 1878 and followed part of the Custer Trail.
There are good visible tracks of the Salt Trail just South and West of the Springs at:
#22 Latitude N44 13 03
Longitude W103 44 10
Return back to #17 reading. Proceed East to:
#23 Latitude N44 13 07
Longtiude W103 42 55
The tracks are visible to the West of the road. Go to the next reading:
#24 Latitude N44 12 55
Longitude W103 42 46
On the West side of Forest Rd. 688 the trail follows the drainage headed toward Middle Box Elder Creek. Continue on to:
#25 Latitude N44 12 45
Longitude W103 42 25
The trail is visible on the West side of the of 688. Continue on to the junction with Custer Crossing and Forest Rd. 256.
#26 Latitude N44 12 22
Longitude W103 41 40
Forsyth wrote, "... thence directly north up the hill into another deadening, across some stony, pine covered hills."
This is the same reading as #16. At this point, the trail turns North. However, first take Rd. 256 toward the South and West to the following reading:
#27 Latitude N44 12 18
Longitude W103 41 58
At this point follow the unimproved road to the right until you reach:
#28 Latitude N44 12 24
Longitude W103 42 36
Here you will observe unusual white quartz outcroppings described
by
Geologist Winchell as follows:
"On visiting it, I find an immense quartz vein that runs
North 50
degrees West by compass. It rises about 15' above the talus
and
for that distance consists of bare quartz rock. This white opaque
quartz deposit is from 15 to 20 feet wide and is split by jointing
into
cuboidal masses that lie in place on each other. Very industrious
prospecting is carried on in the neighborhood of these veins
by gold seekers
who accompany the expedition."
Return to #26 also known as #16 and continue .2 mile North to:
#29 Latitude N44 12 34
Longitude W103 41 38
Note evidence of the trail West of the road at this point. Hike North to:
#30 Latitude N44 12 43
Longitue W103 41 37
Notice good evidence of the trail. Return to the car and proceed North .5 mile on Forest Rd. 256 to:
#31 Latitude N44 12 56
Longitude W103 41 31
Tracks are visible to the West of the road. Continue on for 1.1 miles to:
#32 Latitude N44 13 19
Longitude W103 40 31
Between #31 and #32 the trail was obliterated through the development
of Rd. 256. At #32 there is an unimproved road North down a draw
to the following reading:
#33 Latitude N44 13 27
Longitude W103 40 31
Ludlow made this remark, "One deep valley gave considerable trouble to the wagons crossing."
Proceed to the bottom of the draw and notice the good tracks just to the East of the unimproved road. Return to #32 and turn East .3 mile to 385 and turn North for .7 mile crossing North Box Elder Creek.
Winchell wrote of this place in 1874, " .. just before entering this open tract we encounter a little creek and follow it towards the East but not far before striking more to the North..."
#34 Latitude N44 13 46
Longitude W103 40 38
Turn East on the improved road and park at the fence and walk to:
#35 Latitude N44 13 46
Longitude W103 40 32
At this point, tracks are visible running North and South. Proceed North on Hwy. 385 for .7 mile to Forest Rd. 193:
#36 Latitude N44 14 13
Longitude W103 41 04
Here you will turn in (East) and park. Walk to the following reading where good tracks are evident running North and South:
#37 Latitude N44 14 12
Longitude W103 41 02
Continue North on Hwy. 385 for .8 mile and turn right on this road at:
#38 Latitude N44 14 46
Longitude W103 41 30
Continue for .7 mile to the next reading on the South side of the road:
#39 Latitude N44 14 46
Longitude W103 40 47
Forsyth reported, "...over another creek, and through some
pine woods, into a small valley."
Excellent tracks are visible coming from the Southwest. Return
to Hwy 385
and continue North 2.3 miles to County Hwy. 2335 (Nemo Rd).
#40 Latitude N44 16 38
Longitude W103 41 45
Turn East. Continue East for 2.2 miles to the Elk Ridge development on County Hwy 582 at:
#41 Latitude N44 16 07
Longitude W103 39 31
Turn South at this point for 1 mile staying on the CountyRd. to a junction with Rte. 539 at:
#42 Latitude N44 15 27
Longitude W103 39 27
Turn West for .3 mile to the following reading:
#43 Latitude N44 15 33
Longitude W103 39 51
Ruts are in the draw running North and South crossing the Rte. 539. Walk South down the draw about .5 mile and .25 mile West, check for the next reading:
#44 Latitude N44 15 08
Longitude W103 40 07
The tracks are visible approaching the stream from the South through private land connecting with the previous reading #39 from the South. Return to County Hwy 582 going North to the Gold Dust Trail Rd. where you turn West to .1 mile beyond the intersection of Custer Trail Rd. at a reading of:
#45 Latitude N44 15 41
Longitude W103 39 49
Walk South down the draw at this point and tracks can be seen coming from reading #43. Tracks are also visible walking North from #45 on the West side of Custer Trail Rd. Continue North on Custer Trail Rd. to the junction with County Rd. 582 and turn right for .1 mile to the following reading:
#46 Latitude N44 15 54
Longitude W103 39 30
At this point there are excellent tracks visible coming from the Southwest side of the road. Walk Northeast from the road on the East side of the draw to the following reading:
#47 Latitude N44 15 57
Longitude W103 39 21
Visible tracks at this point are seen through a small grove of ponderosa pine. The tracks continue Northeast. Proceed to:
#48 Latitude N44 15 57
Longitude W103 39 04
This brings you into a meadow where the trail continues more to the East on the South side of the valley. Return to Nemo Road and go East down this road to:
#49 Latitude N44 15 32
Longitude W103 37 49
Turn right at the unimproved road and continue to the right
to:
#50 Latitude N44 15 33
Longitude W103 37 58
Grant had this to say, "Very hard day's march on account of the mica schist which was on edge."
Forsyth ended the day with this statement, "... making camp at 9:30 p.m. after one of the hardest day's marches we have yet made in the Black Hills. Distance 14 3/4 miles northeast."
The tracks are visible on the North side of the road and
crossing the stream
towards the West.
Winchell describes the geological formation in this area as, "...slate beds standing up right and so wasted away that the included quartz beds stand above the ground for several feet...they are black in this area on the exterior and not so long. It was, a very striking object, the jointing planes having caused the dislodgment of some of the separated blocks given the crest a serrated edge." (He reports a similar formation about a mile below where they camped on August 8, 1874 in the valley of Hay Creek.)
Walk up the unmarked road where good tracks can be seen on the West side at:
#51 Latitude N44 15 35
Longitude W103 38 04
Return to the car and from here proceed on to the Nemo Rd.
junction
where there are two branches of Hay Meadow Creek join and then
continue about one half mile downstream (East) to the large
meadow
where, it is assumed, Custer camped for the night at the following
reading:
#52 Latitude N44 15 14
Longitude W103 37 17
Ludlow reported, "We traveled over a over high rocky ridge with schist projecting from the surface nearly vertically - and made a fine camp in the next valley."
The expedition reading for this campsite was obtained on
the top of a
hill Southwest of the campsite at:
#53 LatitudeN44 15 10
Longitude W103 38 08