37TH DAY
37TH DAY (AUGUST 7TH) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 16.2 MILES STARTING FOUR MILES SOUTH OF THE PRESENT DEERFIELD LAKE. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 44 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF AUGUST 7TH: MEDICINE MOUNTAIN QUADRANGLE; DITCH CREEK QUADRANGLE; DEER FIELD QUADRANGLE;AND NAHANT QUADRANGLE. ILLINGSWORTH PICTURE S.D. #44, "GRIZZLY BEAR."
#1 Latitude N44 00 18
Longitude W103 47 18
To arrive at the campground of Aug. 6th, go West out of Hill City on Hwy. C308 also know as Forest Rd. 17 for 15 miles to the junction of C308 and T309. T309 is also Forest Rd. 297. The latitude and longitude for this junction is as follows: Latitude N44 00 18 Longitude W103 47 18
Turn right (South) on Forest Rd. 297 and drive about four miles to the following reading:
#2 Latitude N43 58 00
Longitude W103 45 00
Ludlow's engineering staff did not obtain a reading of this campsite, a heavy thunderstorm interfered. C.C. O'Harra, former president of the South Dakota School of Mines, mapped Custer's 1874 expedition in the late 1920's and indicates the camp of Aug. 6th to be in this location.
Winchell stated, " Our present camp is about four miles Southeast of July 28th." Ludlow said," A heavy thunderstorm came up during the night and the echoes among the Hills were exceedingly grand, the storm of the night before swelled the brooks but the old trail furnished a good road."
"We finally encamp on a tributary of Castle Creek where we found good wood and grass. During the night a very hard thunderstorm occurred.", said Forsyth.
Proceed North on 297 for one-half mile to:
#3 Latitude N43 58 20
Longitude W103 45 41
Turn right (Northeast) on the unimproved road for one quarter mile to the point where a valley from the West meets a valley from the East (saddle).
#4 Latitude N43 58 30
Longitude W103 45 48
The trail comes up the valley from the West and proceeds
down the valley
to the East. Continue on unimproved road and take the first
right going
down the valley to the East to the following reading:
#5 Latitude N43 58 34
Longitude W103 45 26
Tracks are visible coming up from the draw. Continue up the road to the private gate. You have now driven over the tracks which turn to the South at the top of the small hill. At this point turn around and return to the road 297 and turn right (North) drive down the hill a short distance to a reading of:
#6 Latitude N43 58 40
Longitude W103 46 06
At this point a draw or valley to the right (East) should be visible. Park the car and proceed to the following reading:
#7 Latitude N43 58 41
Longitude W103 46 03
Ruts are visible with mature Ponderosa pine growing in them.
Proceed on
foot up the draw to:
#8 Latitude N43 58 36
Longitude W103 45 51
Tracks are visible in the draw at this point. If you continue
up the draw
you will be on the saddle at reading #4( Latitude N43 58 30
and Longitude
W103 45 48). Return to the car and go down 297 ( North) for
about one
half mile to this reading:
#9 Latitude N43 59 07
Longitude W103 46 23
Park and walk over the left (West side of the road ), look down on the edge of the road and you will see evidence of Custer's trail. This is the same trail that Custer used going to the French Creek area on July 28th as he is using on Aug. 7th.
Forsyth wrote, " Started at 4:30 am, back on former trail passing camp #24 [July 28th] in Castle Creek and moved up and across in Elkhorn Prairie in a Northerly direction."
According to Grant, " We got on our old trail very soon and passed our last camp on Castle Creek, followed the trail so as to get on Elkhorn Prairie."
Return to the car and drive down Gold Run Valley on 297 to a junction of Hwy 308 and 297 which is the same reading as #1 (Latitude N44 08 18 Longitude W103 47 18). Turn left (West) and drive to the entrance of Gold Run Trailhead.
#10 Latitude N44 00 19
Longitude W103 47 21
This is the junction of Hwy 308 and 465. Turn right (North) and notice what appears as evidence of an old trail on the hill to the West (left) side of the road.
#11 Latitude N44 00 28
Longitude W103 47 28
From here the trail is under Deerfield Lake as is the camp for July 28,1874 as recorded by Ludlow's engineers.
#12 Latitude N44 00 52
Longitude W103 48 27
This camp was occupied when the expedition was headed South
to the
French Creek area.
Ludlow said, " Crossing Castle Valley, we crossed over Elkhorn
Prairie again. "
Return to Hwy. 308, also known as Forest Rd. 17, turn right (West)
and
proceed West about three and one half miles to the junction
of Forest Rd. 17 , (also known as C306) and Forest Rd. 110 to
this reading:
# 13 Latitude N44 01 32
Longitude W103 50 21
Turn right (North) on C306 (Forest Rd. 17) drive about three miles to Custer Trail Campground Rd.
#14 Latitude N44 02 36
Longitude W103 48 32
Proceed on Custer Trail Campground Rd. toward Deerfield Lake to this reading:
#15 Latitude N44 01 26
Longitude W103 47 50
At this point if you look South across the Lake, you will
see the Gold Run
Trailhead. This portion o fthe trail is covered by Deerfield
Lake.
Backtrack to reading #14 Latitude (N44 02 36 and Longitude
W103 48 32).
While proceeding to this point, check the following readings
on the way:
#16 Latitude N44 01 30
Longitude W103 47 51
Ruts are visible in the draw to the North (right ) side of the road.
#17 Latitude N44 01 49
Longitude W103 47 57
The ruts now appear to the East (right) of the road going
over a small knoll.
# 18 Latitude N44 02 31
Longitude W103 47 52
This reading could be on private land. The trail is visible on the East side of a small hill. Proceed to the junction of Forest Rd. 17 at reading #14 (Latitude N44 02 36 and Longitude W103 48 32). Turn right (North) on Forest Service Rd. 17
# 19 Latitude N44 02 57
Longitude W103 48 05
Upon descending a small valley on the East (right) side of
the road ruts are
visible on the South slope of the valley. Two small ponderosa
pines are
growing in the trail.
Winchell wrote," In passing again over Elkhorn Park, we
travel about a
mile East of the interrupted line of limestone bluffs."
Proceed North on Forest Rd. 17 to the next reading:
#20 Latitude N44 04 58
Longitude W103 48 06
Deep ruts are visible just off the East (right) side of the
road leading down
into the North fork of Castle Creek. Proceed to reading:
#21 Latitude N44 05 13
Longitude W103 47 56
Here Forest Rd. 17 crossed North Castle Creek. Shortly after
Custer's
expedition a stage stop was located here (Custer to Deadwood
Stage).
This is know today as Reynold's Stage Stop.
#22 Latitude N44 05 23
Longitude W103 48 05
Look West up the stream about one quarter of a mile. On the
North side of
the valley another valley can be seen. The expedition traveled
up this valley. This land is very boggy and privately owned.
"We crossed a creek and ascended a small valley in which the beaver had been at work. ", said Ludlow of this area.
According to Forsyth, "...into a small valley with a beautiful stream of water through it, up a long ravine..."
Drive East on Forest Service Rd. 17 following down North Castle Creek for a short distance. Look for a draw to the North of the road.
#23 Latitude N44 05 12
Longitude W103 47 24
The next portion of the trail requires a suitable off-road vehicle. Turn right (North) on Forest Service Rd. 192 and proceed up the draw to the intersection of Forest Rd. 190 and 192 to the next reading:
#24 Latitude N44 06 03
Longitude W103 47 35
Turn left in a Westerly direction and drive to the junction of Forest Rd. 190 and 190-lB and 190-lD.
#25 Latitiude N44 06 04
Longitude W103 47 50
Proceed down (South) on 190-1D. This is a dead-end road and
will take
you back to reading #22 (Latitude 44 05 23 and Longitude W103
48 05).
Turn around and drive up to:
#26 Latitude N44 05 47
Longitude W103 48 05
Ruts on the West (right) side of the road can be seen.
#27 Latitude N44 06 03
Longitude W103 47 49
The ruts are still on the West side of the road.
Forsyth stated, " Up a long ravine over some pine covered hills"
Proceed to # 25 (Latitude N44 06 04 Longitude W103 47 50). Proceed Northeast on 190-1B to the following reading:
#28 Latitude N44 06 11
Longitude W103 47 43
The ruts just East of the road can be seen going up a small hill.
Winchell said in his report," The county is much less
mountainous
in the belt of the schists and slates, as we approach the limestone
region, than in that of the granite and much smoother than that
in the
area of the limestone."
Drive North on 190-lB to the next reading:
#29 Latitude N44 06 22
Longitude W103 47 37
The ruts are visible East (right) side of the road. It is
quite likely that the
present unimproved road was constructed on Custer's route, which
later
became the stage coach route.
Continue North to the intersection of 190-1B and 191 (Merry-go-round
junction) to:
#30 Latitude N44 06 34
Longitude W103 47 16
Drive North on 191 to the following reading:
#31 Latitude N44 06 54
Longitude W103 46 56
Once again, it is the assumption that the present road is
built on Custer's
original trail. Proceed to:
#32 Latitude N44 07 06
Longitude W103 46 42
Look for the trail going down in the drainage to the left
(West) of the road.
There are other ruts in this immediate area indicating changes
by the stage
coach route.
Forsyth noted," ... down into another ravine. ."
Continue to the next reading:
#33 Latitude N44 07 39
Longitude W103 47 02
The trail is now Long's Draw and is headed for the North Rapid Creek drainage. Continue North on 191 to the intersection of 191 and 231 which is the North Rapid Creek drainage to this reading:
#34 Latitude N44 08 02
Longitude W103 46 52
Turn right (East) on Forest Service Rd. 231 and drive approximately
one
mile to the intersection of 231 and 259 at the following reading:
#35 Latitude N44 07 55
Longitude W103 45 45
Ludlow states in his journal from this date,"...into the valley of another creek flowing Eastward, passing down this for a few miles further progress was barred by a canyon and turning sharply to the left over a slight ridge..."
To check on Ludow's statement drive East on 231 for a few miles to the following reading:
#36 Latitude N44 07 40
Longitude W103 44 17
Drive through the gap then turn around and proceed West on
231 to
#35 (Latitude N44 07 55 and Longitude W103 45 45). Then go North
on 259 to the following reading:
#37 Latitude N44 08 30
Longitude W103 45 55
The ruts to the East (right) of 259 are visible going up
the hill. Continue
driving North on 259 to the top of the ridge to the next reading:
#38 Latitude N44 08 51
Longitude W103 46 00
The old trail is visible on the East side of the road and
crossing over the
West side. Ludlow's recorded reading for the Aug. 7th, 1874
campground
is:
#39 Latitude N44 08 53
Longitude W103 45 50
This reading is about two miles South of the described campground.
Proceed North on 259 and notice the ruts from the expedition
at the
following reading:
#40 Latitude N44 09 03
Longitude W103 45 53
#41 Latitude N44 09 24
Longitude W103 45 48
Proceed North on 259 less that a mile to the following reading:
#42 Latitude N44 09 51
Longitude W103 45 37
Find a suitable place to park the car, this is National Forest land and there is a gate nearby, but walking is advised. Proceed on foot down the draw to the East and notice the ruts on either side of the trail. Continue to the next reading:
#43 Latitude N44 09 52
Longitude W103 45 26
The ruts on the side of the hill to the North are visible. Walk down to the fence line, you are now in the North Rapid Creek drainage. Look up to the North where you will see the trail, this is private land. Return to the car and proceed North on 259 into the valley of the North Rapid Creek to:
#44 Latitude N44 10 18
Longitude W103 45 24
The ruts are visible on the West (left ) side of 259. Proceed
North to the
intersection of Swede Gulch and North Rapid Creek to:
#45 Latitude N44 10 42
Longitude W103 45 22
This is the described campground for Aug. 7, 1874.
Ludlow describes the campground as follows, " ...we camped on the banks of another creek. Two grizzly bears were killed near this camp and the first grasshoppers seen in the hills in any number were swarming in both creek valleys."
Winchell noted, " We are on a fine creek running South and joining one from the Northwest. Just as we reach this camping place before the arrival of the train, General Custer and Colonel Ludlow killed a large, cinnamon colored bear and soon after the Indians killed another. "
"Two fine, large grizzly bears killed; country quite rough; went into camp at 6:00 pm on a fine, running stream.", wrote Grant.
According to Forsyth,"...and thence North over a high
ridge, and into camp on a good stream, with grass and wood in
abundance. Just as he was selecting the camp, General Custer started
up a large bear which with the assistance of Colonel Ludlow and
Bloody Knife, (a Sioux scout) he soon killed. It took five shots
to bring him down; his weight was about 800 pounds. Distance made
today sixteen and a half miles."