36TH DAY
(AUGUST 6TH) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 23.2 MILES STARTING THREE MILES EAST OF CUSTER ON ALT. HWY 16. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 52 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERtNG THE ROUTE OF AUGUST 6TH ARE: CUSTER QUADRANGLE, BERNE QUADRANGLE, AND MEDICINE MOUNTAIN QUADRANGLE.
#1 Latitute N43 46 10
Longitude W103 33 02
Campground as reported by Ludlow for Aug. 1-5, 1874.
#2 Latitude N43 46 26
Longitude W103 32 20
Illingsworth located the camp as determined by picture of French
Creek Camp ground (State Photo #46). Latitude N43 46 26 Longitude
W103 32 20
According to Ludlow " A camp was broken for the return trip. General Custer determined instead of going Eastward upon the prairie to partly retrace our steps. and examine into the practicability of a route Northward through the Hills emerging somewhere near Bear Butte and so complete the examination of them." General Custer mistakenly said " On the morning of the seventh (7th) the expedition began its march Northward, Bear Butte being our next objective point." No track or evidence of the trail could be found from camp Aug 1-5 to the present city of Custer. The surface of the land has been disturbed by roads, mining, development and tourist industry. Drive into Custer and in the Northwest section of town, locate North 1st St. and Lincoln St. and the following reading:
#3 Latitude N 43 46 10
Longitude W103 36 38
This is private land, tracks are visible in the draw running North to South. This trail was used by Custer approaching the French Creek area and on return to the Bear Butte area.
The next indication of the trail is on Forest Service land.
Take Hwy 16 N out of Custer and stop at National Forest Custer
Head quarters and obtain permission to visit their storage area.
In a draw to the South of the storage
parking area tracks are visible at:
#4 Latitiude N43 46 13
Longitude W103 36 46
Return to the car, and proceed North on Hwy 16 to the Buckhorn Dr. on the West side of Hwy 16.
#5 Latitude N43 46 48
Longitude W103 37 05
At the junction of Buckhorn Loop and Buckhorn Dr.:
#6 Latitude N43 46 36
Longitude W103 37 04
Take Buckhorn Loop to the left and follow around to:
#7 Latitude N43 46 28
Longitude W103 37 16
Ruts are visible coming up the draw from the East in a grove of small Ponderosa pines. The ruts continue in a Northwest direction up and over a saddle.
#8 Latitude N43 46 40
Longitude W103 37 22
This is on private land. Forsyth stated, " Started on our return trip via Bear Butte, Crow Creek and the Little Missouri, at 4;30 am. Moved back on our old trail passing camp number 25." (July 30th and 31st). Return to Custer and drive West on Hwy 16 about two miles from the center of Custer to the intersection of Hwy 16 and Hwy 586.
#9 Latitiude N43 45 31
Longitude W103 37 38
Take Hwy 586 North to:
#10 Latitude N43 45 53
Longitude W103 37 59
At this reading continue North to Howe Well Drilling. The land to the East of the buildings is private. Tracks coming from the Buckhorn Loop area connect with the tracks on private land at:
# 11 Latitude N43 46 23
Longitude W103 38 14
You are now in the lower Ruby Creek drainage, part of this
drainage is
Forest Service and part is private land.
#12 Latitude N43 46 29
Longitude W103 38 53
There are good ruts through this area. There is a trail in
this area suitable
for high clearance four-wheel drives.
# 13 Latitude N43 46 43
Longtitude W103 39 12
Custer's trail crosses Ruby Creek at this point.
#14 Latitude N43 47 06
Longitude W103 39 31
The trail is in Ruby Creek drainage.
Grant stated, " Took our old trail back for about sixteen
miles and passed through two of our old camps..."
The two camps mentioned have not been established by Ludlow's engineers. It is assumed that the camp of July 30-31 was on the North side of French Creek in the present town of Custer. The July 29th camp appears to be in the Vanderlehr Creek drainage to the West of Hwy 297.
Return to Custer and drive North about three miles out of Custer on Hwy. 16. Turn left on Rte. 297 about one mile and take the left fork of Rd. 284 crossing Ruby Creek to the next reading:
#15 Latitude N43 47 24
Longitude W103 39 34
The ruts are on the Southside of Hwy 284 turning up the road to LoMiller's.
#16 Latitude N43 47 44
Longitude W103 39 45
LoMiller's home South of Hwy 284, there are ruts East of the house, this is private property
Proceed West on Rd. 284 to the following reading:
# 17 Latitude N43 47 45
Longitude W103 39 56
The ruts are on the North side of the road.
# 18 Latitude N43 47 38
Longitude W103 40 24
The ruts are on the south side of the road.
#l9 Latitude N43 47 42
Longitude W103 40 40
The ruts are visible on the North side of the road.
#20 Latitude N 43 47 46
Longitude W103 40 50
This is the intersection of Rd. 284 and Lee Valley Ranch Rd. This is private land. The trail leads down the drainage towards Ruby Creek. At this point, turn around and drive East on 284 to the junction of 284 and 297: Turn North on 297 and proceed for about two miles to the reading:
#21 Latitude N43 4925
Longitude W103 40 22
A fair trail leads down to the Ruby Creeck drainage The ruts are seen to the North of the road. Bear in mind that on Aug. 6,1874 Custer's Expedition is headed for Bear Butte and is going in a Northerly direction. Proceed down the trail by vehicle to a reading of:
#22 Latitude N43 49 15
Longitude W103 40 31
The ruts are visible at the fence line to the North of the
road. Continue down
the drainage to:
#23 Latitude N43 48 34
Longitude W103 41 01
This is the end of the road, walk up and over the blocked
section and cross
Ruby Creek at a reading of:
#24 Latitude N43 48 31
Longitude W103 40 54
Follow the trail to a reading of:
#25 Latitude N43 48 08
Longitude W103 40 48
At this point you are in the drainage that connects with #20 (Latitude N43 47 46 and Longitude W103 40 50). Walk back to the vehicle and return to Rd. 297 at #21 (Latitude N43 49 25 and Longitude W103 40 22).
Proceed North on 297 to:
#26 Latitude N43 49 38
Longitude W103 40 33
The ruts are on the Northeast side of the road a short distance
inside the
fence. On the top of the hill, East of the reading #26:
#27 Latitude N43 49 51
Longitude W103 40 52
This is the location where Illingsworth took two pictures
on July 30, 1874.
Drive North about one mile on 297 to:
#28 Latitude N43 50 31
Longitude W103 41 16
Evidence of the trail can be seen about thirtv yards East
of the road.
Proceed North and cross Loue's Creek, a short way up the hill
at:
#29 Latitude N43 50 53
Longitude W103 41 32
A short stretch of ruts are visible on the East side of the
road. And a short
disance up the road on the West side, about ten yards in is
the continuation
of the trail:
#30 Latitude N43 51 23
Longitude W103 41 36
Drive North on 797 on a long downhill road, leading to Vanderlehr
Creek.
The ruts are visible about thirty yards West of tne road.
From the description of the campsite for July 29, 1874 it
is thought that the site
may be a short distance up the stream. No reading for the campsite
was
obtained by Ludlow. This campsite was not used on the Aug. 6,
1874
returning expedition. Proceed North up the hill on 297 to a
reading of:
#31 Latitude N43 52 19
Longitude W103 41 52
The ruts with Ponderosa Pine growing in the depression are
visible a short
distance West of the road at readings #31 and #32.
#32 Latitude N43 52 32
Longitude W103 41 59
At the top of the hill at the junction of Rd. 299 and 297 on the right side of the road (East) trees appear in the descending ruts at a reading of:
#33 Latitude N43 52 55
Longitude W103 42 18
Drive downhill on 297 about one quarter mile where a drainage
runs West to
East at a reading of:
#34 Latitude N43 53 05
Longitude W103 42 15
At this point the expedition leaves the old trail and turns
West over a new
route.
According to Winchell " ...made a detour to the West by which we found a better road and made the distance somewhat shorter."
Grant said, " Took our old trail back for about sixteen
miles and passed through two of old camps; then turned to our
left. "
" Thence moved away from the trail Westward over some large
hills and finally encamped on a tributaty of Castle Creek;"
wrote Forsyth.
This area can be viewed from the top of the drainage down.
Return to the junction of 299 and 297 at #33 Latitude N43 52 55
Longitude W103 42 18
Take route 299 traveling in a Northwest direction to:
#35 Latitude N43 53 14
Longitude W103 42 47
At this point an unimproved road descends the drainage in
an Easterly
manner. The ruts are visible in this drainage. This can be walked
or driven.
It ends at a gate. There is no turn-around available.
#36 Latitude N43 53 13
Longitude W103 42 35
The ruts on the North side of the road connect to ruts at
a previous location
#34 (Latitude N43 53 05 and Longitude W103 42 15).
Return to the top of the draw and prceed West down 299 drainage
to:
#37 Latitude N43 53 13
Longitude W103 43 02
Excellent ruts are visible on the north side of 299 indicating that the track from #35 (Latitude N43 53 14 and Longitude W103 42 47) to the present stop were lost by the construction of 299 as will be indicated from this point to the next notable ruts. Continue down the hill on 299 to the Spring Creek Meadow at a reading of:
#38 Latitude N43 53 39
Longitude W103 43 09
The tracks continue up the meadow to a reading of:
#39 Latitude N43 53 48
Longitude W103 43 12
At this point the tracks are about one hundred yards East of 299. Cross Spring Creek and the Boy Scout Camp and proceed North on 299 about a quarter mile to:
#40 Latitude N43 54 03
Longitude W103 43 29
This should place you looking up a draw to the North on the West side of the draw an old trail or road is visible. A short distance up the road 299 is an unimproved road 299 1H. Turn right (North) and drive to a reading:
#41 Latitude N43 54 15
Longitude W103 43 28
Park and walk into the drainage where the trail is visible.
Continue on
2991H to:
#42 Latitude N43 54 31
Longitude W103 43 25
To the right of the road Custer's trail fords the small stream
and tracks
are visible ascending up the drainage.
#43 Latitude N43 54 36
Longitude W103 43 32
Cross the small stream and bear to the left along a fence where the ruts can be seen. The trail leads up and over the saddle to the Northwest. From here to the Bobcat Gulch is private land.
Return to Rd. 299 and proceed to Bobcat Gulch, about two miles to a reading of:
#44 Latitude N43 55 14
Longitude W103 44 30
Old road and tracks are visible on the edge of 299. This
reading is just outside of private land and is on the West sidle
of the saddle mentioned in #43
(Latitude N43 54 36 and Longitude W103 43 32).
#45 Latitude N43 55 23
Longitude W103 44 21
This reading is on National Forest land on the North side of the fence and at the bottom of the drainage in Bobcat Gulch. The tracks found here are not suitable for wagons but could have been travelled by horse.
#46 Latitude N43 55 32
Longitude W103 44 27
This reading is about one hundred yards East of Rd. 299.
Proceed up the road
to side road 299 1-A. Park and walk down towards the low point
of the drainage at:
#47 Latitude N43 55 36
Longitude W103 44 37
The trail here is just down stream from the creek crossing.
Follow this trail on
foot towards the Southeast. The ruts are visible on the West
side of the old road. Return to the above reading (#47) cross
the creek and walk up the drainage to:
#48 Latitude N43 55 52
Longitude W103 44 51
At this point the trail turns to the right (North) and starts
over the saddle just
West of Copper Mountain. Return to the car and drive up 299
just below the
junction of 301.
#49 Latitude N43 55 53
Longitude W103 44 50
The ruts are visible on the East side of 299. Cross over Six-mile Rd 301 and park the car. Walk down (North) the hill to a reading of:
#50 Latitude N43 56 00
Longitude W103 44 49
The old road leads in a Northeast direction and follows the
bowl to the bottom
of the drainage. At times Custer's route is later used by stagecoach
and even
later by local miners and ranchers. Follow this road, walking,
to the following
reading:
#51 Latitude N43 56 11
Longitude W103 44 57
The trail is just East of the present unimproved road.
#52 Latitude N43 56 24
Longitude W103 44 47
At this point the trail crosses to the West of the road 297C. Return to the car and proceed East on 301 to the junction of 297 and turn left (North) and drive one quarter mile to:
#53 Latitude N43 56 31
Longitude W103 43 40
This is the intersection of 297 and 297-C Turn left (west)
and go on the
unimproved road for about one and one quarter miles to the former
reading
#52 (Latitude N43 56 24 and Longitude W 103 44 47). Look for
a turn-around
in his area. The road ahead could be impassable.
#54 Latitude N43 56 37
Longitude W103 44 42
The ruts are visible on the East side of the road.
#55 Latitude N43 56 40
Longitude W103 44 38
The ruts are visible on the Southeast side of the draw.
#56 Laitude N43 56 41
Longitude W103 44 33
Here the wagon train was attempting to stay above the swampy
area. The
ruts are visible near the fence line to the North.
#57 Latitude N43 56 40
Longitude W103 44 20
The ruts are coming up from the bottom land and converge with road 297-C.
#58 Latitude N43 56 30
Longitude W103 44 03
The trail leaves the established road and takes a Northeasterly course.
#59 Latitude N43 56 28
Longitude W103 43 37
At this point the ruts are visible from the West sidle of
road 297. The trail
turns North on 297 and joins the trail of July 29, 1874 heading
South
to the French Creek area. Drive North on 297 for one half mile
and notice
the gate on the West side of 297 at:
#60 Latitude N43 56 57
Longitude W103 43 35
The tracks are seen fifty feet West of the gate and are running
North and South.
Walk South on the tracks to the following reading:
#61 Latitude N43 56 54
Longitude W103 43 39
Return, following the tracks North to a reading of:
#62 Latitude N43 57 09
Longitude W103 43 33
This reading is also visible from Rd. 297 North of the gate
#60 (Latitude
N43 56 57 and Longitude W103 43 35). Return to the car and continue
driving North on 297 where the ruts are visible at the above
reading. Drive
North on 297 for approximately one half mile and park the car.
The West
side of the road is National Forest land, walk in and look for
excellent ruts
at the following readings starting at the South end.
#63 Latitude N43 57 18
Longitude W103 44 03
#64 Latitude N43 57 26
Longitude Wl03 44 05
#65 Latitude N43 57 28
Longitude W103 44 10
Return to the car and follow 297 where the road turns West.
Just inside
the South fence the ruts are seen at the next reading:
#66 Latitude N43 57 32
Longitude W103 44 17
No indication of the trail was found from this point to the
designated camps
ground for Aug. 6, 1874. This is assumed to be near the following
reading:
#67 Latitude N43 58 00
Longitude W103 45 00
Forsyth wrote, " Finally encamped on a tributary of
Castle Creek, where we
found good wood and grass. During the night a very hard thunder
storm
occurred. Distance 23 1/2 miles Northwest."
According to Winchell," Our present camp is about four
miles Southeast of
that of July 28th."
Ludlow reported, " Camp was reached just beyond the
high prairie passed
over July 29th. A heavy thunder storm came during the night
and the echoes
were exceedingly grand "
The wagon train arrived at 7:30 pm on Aug 6,1874 having travelled
a
distance of 23.2 miles according to Ludlow's report.