31ST - 35TH DAYS

(AUGUST 1 -5) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 3.5 MILES STARTING AT THE PRESENT CITY OF CUSTER, CAMP OF JULY 30 AND 31. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 50 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAP COVERING THE AUGUST 1ST THROUGH 5TH ACTIVITIES IS: CUSTER QUADRANGLE. lLLlNGSWORTH PHOTOGRAPHS ARE: #843, "PERMANENT CAMP IN AGNES PARK"; #839, "LOOKING EAST FROM GRANITE KNOB"; SD #18 PERMANENT CAMP IN AGNES PARK"; SD #17 "PERMANENT CAMP" (FRENCH CREEK); SD #46 "PERMANENT CAMP F.C."; AND #836, "GOLDEN PARK".

#1 Latitude N43 46 10
Longitude W103 33 02

Ludlow, the engineer, reports the position of the camp. The location of the camp indicated by Illingsworth's photo,(State photo #46)

#2 Latitude N43 46 26
Longitude W103 32 20

According to General Custer, " On the first of August we moved camp a few miles simply to obtain fresh grass, still keeping near the base of the hills to the East of us." Winchell said, " We are four or five miles about East of our last night's camp. We had yesterday a long and tiresome trip to Harney's Peak." Ludlow wrote," Camp was moved a short distance down the Creek for fresh pasturage." In his report, Forsyth wrote, " ...moved three and a half miles downstream for fresh grass. Have a beautiful camp with abundance of grass just opposite three beautiful mountains covered to their summits with pines. Remained in camp writing letters. Engineer mapping parties out in all directions. Rained very hard from 4-7 pm." Grant said," Moved our camp down the creek where we could get more water and grass. Some more gold and silver said to have been found - but to me, they look like the same pieces that were shown to me yesterday and the day before yesterday."

Aug. 2
Winchell wrote on this date 'Reconnaissance to the mouth of French Creek,' " Three days having been assigned to a reconnoitering party destined to trace out to the plains, the creek on which we are camped, and to visit the Badlands toward the S.E., we set out from camp early hoping to obtain before our return, a collection of mammalian fossils from the Tertiary. This party is also accompanied by topographical observers, and by W.G. B. Grinnell of Yale College and his assistant Lt. North, our escort is two companies of horse under Col. Hart." Ludlow said," Command still in camp - there is much talk of gold and industrious search for it is making - I saw in General Custer's tent what the miner said, he had obtained during the day. Under a strong reading glass, it resembles small pinheads and fine scales of irregular shape perhaps thirty in number. The miners expressed themselves quite confident, that if they could reach the bedrock in the vallies at a favorable place - plenty could be obtained by use of the pan. General Custer determined upon a rapid scout South to the South fork of the Cheyenne for the purpose of examing the intervening country, while another party should go South East following the creek upon which we were encamped, to its junction with the same stream. These two explorations would cover considerable country, and complete the examination of the South and South East portion of the Hills." Custer also wrote, " This a.m. I dispatched, two companies under Col. Hart in a South Easterly direction to extend our exploration with the South fork of the Cheyenne River. Tomorrow morning at 5 o'clock I will set out with five companies of Cavalry and endeavor to reach the same stream in a south-westerly direction from Harney's Peak. Reynolds the Scout, who is to carry this dispatch to Fort Laramie, will go with us as far as we go in that direction, when he sets out alone to reach his destination traveling mainly by night. " Forsyth said, " Mail leaves tomorrow. Have been writing all day. Two companies have gone Eastward towards the South fork of the Cheyenne. Will return tomorrow night. General Custer, with five companies, starts Southward tomorrow for the South fork of the Cheyenne. Col. Grant and myself accompany him we are exploring the passes thoroughly and will know something of the Black Hills when we return." Included in the dispatch that was sent with Reynolds by General Custer early in the morning on August 4, 1874, " Cattle would winter in these valleys without other food or shelter than that to be obtained from running at large. As there are scientists accompanying the expedition who are examining into the mineral resources in this region. The result of whose researches will accompany my detailed report, I omit all present reference to that portion of our explorations until the return of the expedition, except to state what will appear in any event in the public prints, that gold has been found at several places, and it is the belief of those who are giving their attention to this subject, that it will be found in paying quantities. I have upon my table forty or fifty particles of pure gold in size averaging that of a small pinhead and most of it obtained today from one panful of earth. As we have never remained longer at our camp than one day, it will be readily understood that there is no opportunity to make a satisfactory examination in regard to deposits of valuable minerals. Veins of lead and strong indications of the existence of silver have been found. Until further examination is made regarding the richness of the gold no opinion should be formed. Veins of what the geologists term gold bearing quartz crop out on almost every hillside. All existing geological or geographical maps of this region have been found incorrect. This will not seem surprising, when it is remembered that both have been compiled by guess work and without entering the country attempted to be represented. The health of the command continues excellent. I will begin my Northward march in four days from this date. I do not expect to arrive at Fort Lincoln until the 31 st of August. Signed, G.A. Custer Brevit Major General USA Commanding Expedition. P.S. 10:30 pm, August 3, 1874 ...from this point [ this is on the Cheyenne River approximately 45 miles South of the Aug. 1-5 camp] the Scout sets out in one hour with this dispatch for Fort Laramie."

During this period of time, August 1-5, Illingsworth was free to take numerous photographs of the French Creek area.

To view the initials carved in the rock South of the permanent campground that could have been carved by a member of the expedition in 1874, drive one half mile East on Alt. Hwy 16, turn right to Annie Tallent Monument. Turn right on the road to the West at:

#3 Latitude N43 46 01
Longitude W103 31 51

Proceed on the unimproved road to the old gate entrance of Custer State Park. Park the car at:

#4 Latitude N43 46 01
Longitude W103 32 07

Leave the car and go on foot over a granite outcropping to:

#5 Latitude N43 45 58
Longitude W103 32 17

At this point, permanently fastened to the outcropping is a metal plate indicating a photo point of Illingsworth of the camp on French Creek. About seventy-five feet West of camera point are initials carved on a North facing granite formation. The initials consist of the capital letters G C US 74. Watch your step, the rocks are steep and slippery in this area.