29TH AND 30TH DAYS

(JULY 30TH AND 31 ST) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. TRAIL IS 10 MILES STARTING AT THE VANDERLEHR CREEK DRAINAGE TO THE PRESENT CITY OF CUSTER. STARTING POINT IS APPROXIMATELY 48 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF JULY 30TH AND 31ST ARE: BERNE QUADRANGLE AND CUSTER QUADRANGLE. PICTURES BY ILLINGSWORTH #824 ILLINGSWORTH VALLEY, #819 HARNEY'S PEAK, #832 SUNSHINE AND SHADOW MOUNTAIN, #823 PILOT KNOB, #820 TURKEY ROCK, #813 GOLD QUARTZ MOUNTAIN, AND SD #50 DRINKING PARTY.

#1 Latitude N43 51 48
Longitude W103 41 38

This is the designated campsite in Vanderlehr Creek drainage. This area is found on Rd. 297. From Custer, drive North on Hwy 16 about two and one half miles to the junction of 284 and 16. Turn left (West) on 284 for about one mile to the junction of 284 and 297 at a reading of:

#2 Latitude N43 48 02
Longitude W103 39 06

Turn right (North) on 297 and drive about seven miles to the Vanderlehr Creek (a very pronounced drainage basin).

According to Custer's journal, " On the thirtieth, moved on the continuation of our previous course and through a fine, open country with excellent grazing."

WincheLL said, " Leaving camp at 7:00 am we travel Southeast and soon strike a smooth valley running in the same direction."

Forsyth also spoke of this area, " Broke camp at 7:00 am, moved up the
valley to a Southwest direction, following the Indian trail which led us
through the valley by a fine road out into an open, park-like country
very beautiful, with vales and natural avenues in every directions, running
between low hills covered with a fine growth of good pine and with numbers
of good springs in all directions."

Grant said," The wagons got into camp at 4:30 am this morning - after marching all night. After two and a half hours of rest, we started again."

Turn around and follow 297 South to the next reading at:

#3 Latitude N43 51 23
Longitude W103 41 36

The ruts are visible abouth twenty yards West of 297. The same trail was used by Custer's expedition of 1874 in route to Bear Butte on Aug. 6, 1874.

Continue up the hill on 297 to the drainage running South at:

#4 Latitude N43 51 01
Longitude W103 41 36

The ruts are visible ten yards West of 297.

#5 Latitude N43 50 53
Longitude W103 41 32

Drive South on 297 to the above reading. There is an indication of ruts just East of 297. Proceed South on 297 and cross Loue's Creek. On a flat area just East of 297 the ruts are visible in a small meadow at:

#6 Latitude N43 50 31
Longitude W103 41 16

Go South up the hill on 297 to a reading of:

#7 Latitude N43 49 51
Longitude W103 40 52

Ludlow stated, " We traveled all day through a beautiful, pastoral and
agricultural country, half wood, half glade full of deer and abundantly
grassed. Harneys Peak was passed eight or nine miles on the left.

On the crown of the hill to the East, Illingsworth took two pictures. One
is of hills to the left of where his camera is placed. The other is an attempt
to photograph Harney Peak. In the photo of Harney Peak, when developed,
is a large, silver mirror-like formation (mica schist). This caught Illingsworth's
attention and as a result, he returns to the unusual formation on July 31st and
takes a series of pictures in this area.

Proceed South on 297 to the following reading:

#8 Latitude N43 49 38
Longitude Wl03 40 33

The ruts can be seen on the Northeast side of the road, a short distance inside of the fence line. South on 297 is a Forest Service Rd. on the left side at:

#9 Latitude N43 49 25
Longitude W103 40 22

Turn West on this trail and stop. Examine the ruts leading down the hill on the North side of the gate. This road leads to the Ruby Creek drainage. Proceed down the trail to a reading of:

#10 LatitudeN43 49 15
Longtitude W103 40 31

Stop and walk over to the fence line to the right of the road. The ruts are
visible and can be followed up the valley and down the drainage for some
distance.

Forsyth said, " Grass, most abundant and of good quality. Passed near the
base of a range of mountains which hid Harney's Peak from our view."

Return to the car and continue down the drainage.

# 11 Latitude N43 48 34
Longitude W103 41 01

This is the end of the passable road. Walk up and over the blocked section,
crossing Ruby Creek to a reading of:

# 12 Latitude N43 48 31
Longitude W103 40 54

According to Ludlow," A few high hills were scattered about but more of them were low. Granite appeared for the first time."

Follow this trail to a reading of:

#13 Latitude N43 48 08
Longitude W103 40 48

At this point, look up the drainage to the right (Southwest). This is the Lee Valley Ranch (private land). Return to the car and drive back to Rd. 297 turn right (South) and drive two miles to the intersection of 297 and 284. This is the same as #2 (Latitude N43 48 02 and Longitude Wl03 39 06).

Proceed West on 284 for about a mile and one half to the intersection of 284
and Lee Valley Ranch Rd.

#14 Latitude N43 47 46
Longitude W103 40 50

On the East side of the road leading to the Lee Valley Ranch, ruts can be seen
This joins to the previous reading of #l3( Latitude N43 48 08 and Longitude
Wl03 40 48). Turn around and go East on 284, making the following
observations:

# 15 Latitude N43 47 42
Longitude W103 40 40

The trail is on the North side of the road.

# 16 Latitude N43 47 38
Longitude W103 40 24

The trail is now on the South side of the road.

#17 Latitude N43 47 45
Longitude W103 39 56

The trail is once again on the North side of the road.

#18 Latitude N43 47 44
Longitude Wl03 39 45

The ruts are on the South side of Rd. 284 and go up the West side of Rd. leading to LoMiller's. The following readings are on private land and take you down and across the Ruby drainage area in the vicinity of the Minnie May Mine.

#l9 Latitude N43 47 24
Longitude W103 39 34

The ruts are East of LoMiller's home (private land).

#20 Latitude N43 47 06
Longitude W103 39 31

Excellent ruts leading to Ruby Creek (private land.)

#21 Latitude N43 46 43
Longitude W103 39 12

Custer's trail crosses Ruby Creek. Just downstream from the crossing, Ruby
Creek drainage becomes a narrow ravine (private land ).

#22 Latidude N43 46 29
Longitude W103 38 53

There are good ruts through this area. A high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicle is required and this is private land. For another view of this area, return to the city of Custer and drive West on Hwy 16 about two miles from the center of Custer to the intersection of Hwy 16 and 586.

#23 Latitude N43 45 31
Longitude W103 37 38

Take 586 North to:

#24 Latitude N43 45 53
Longitude W103 37 59

At this reading continue North to Howe Well Drilling. The land to the East of the buildings is private. The tracks leading to the Buckhorn Estates area connect with the tracks on the private land at:

#25 Latitude N43 46 23
Longitude W103 38 14

Return to Custer and take Hwy 16 North about one and one fourth miles.

#26 Latitude N43 46 48
Longitude W103 37 05

This is the intersection of Buckhorn Dr. and Hwy. l6. Turn left (Southwest)
at the intersection and proceed to the intersection of Buckhorn Loop and
Buckhorn Dr.

#27 Latitude N43 46 36
Longitude W103 37 04

Take Buckhorn Loop to:

#28 Latitude N43 46 28
Longitude W103 37 16

Park the car. The ruts are on either side of the road, small ponderosa pines are
growing in them. Follow the ruts up the hill to the fence line (private land).

#29 Latitude N43 46 40
Longitude W103 37 22

The ruts are a continuation of the trail found at reading #25 (Latitude N43
46 23 and Longitude W103 38 l4). Return to the car and drive South on
Hwy 16 towards Custer. Turn right into the parking lot of the Forest Super-
visor's office and obtain permission to walk down to the storage area. On
the South side of the black topped area, look for the ruts of the expedition at:

#30 Latitude N43 46 l3
Longitude W103 36 46

Notice that this is the same drainage from the West as you were in at Buckhorn
Estates. Return to the car and drive into Custer, the local telephone directory
should show North 1st St. and Lincoln St.

#31 LatitudeN43 46 10
Longitude W103 36 38

The ruts appear in the drainage. The ruts up the drainage indicate a change
of route from one drainage to the other ( The previous reading of #30
Latitude N43 46 13 and Longitude Wl03 36 46.)

Ludlow does not record a reading for the camp of July 30 and 31. All
evidence of the camp has been obliterated in establishing the city of Custer.
The assumed campground reading is:

#32 Latitude N43 45 52
Longitude W103 36 08

Forsyth wrote," Encamped about 3:00 pm in a fine, open country among
a lot of low, wooded hills with vales opening in all directions on the bank of
a still creek, with plenty of good water in holes, but it is not running water at
this season of the year. Distance marched -"

According to Grant," Going into camp near Harney's Peak and on what we
supposed to be French Creek, some gold said to have been found."

Ludlow said," Our proximity to the outer plains in the East was evident. As
camp was neared the air was milder. The grass drier and the streams contained less water. Grasshoppers appeared and a rattlesnake was captured in camp. All strong indications of the vicinity of the prairie. "

Custer wrote in his log, " After a march of over ten miles we encamped early in the day about five miles from the Western base of Harney's Peak, finding water and grass and wood abundant with streams of clear, cold, water running through camp. "

July 31
Ludlow reported, " The command remained in camp and surveying parties were sent out and the gold hunters redoubled their efforts. General Custer and myself with Professors Winchell and Donaldson and Mr. Wood escorted by a company of cavalry set out to ascend Hamey. A rough ride of eight or nine miles over high hills and heavily timbered ravines in some of which birch was seen for the first time, brought us to the foot of a granite elevation with a creek flowing Eastward. Wild raspberries, unexcelled in size and flavor abounded. And in the dark, wet bottoms, the June-berry bushes grow to a height of ten or twelve feet and hung full of fruit. Leaving the horses at the foot of the clean granite the ascent was made on foot. Halting to rest and lunch another summit two or three miles was seen rising higher than the one we were on. Reaching the summit of this still another several hundred feet higher and a mile more West showed that we had more work to do. A stiff climb brought us to the top whence nothing more lofty could be seen and we stood on the most elevated portion of the Hills, some 9,700 feet above the sea. Except that along side us rose a mass of granite forty feet in heighth with perpendicular sides that forbade an attempt to scale them withoutt the aid of ropes and ladders. A stunted spruce was growing under its protection, a few ferns and harebells obtained substance nearby. The view was superb extending over the intervening peaks and hills to a broad expanse of prairie from the North by East around to Southwest. The course of the forks of the Cheyenne could be distinctly traced and a dim line visible to the Southeast was even thought to be the hills of White River, fifty to sixty miles distant. Bear Butte, forty odd miles to the North, was again seen over the wooded ranges and all but Inyan Kara of the principal peaks were in view. Two of the prominent ones, I have named for General Terry and General Custer. The return to camp was a struggle against almost every possible obstacle - rocks- creeks-marshes-willow and aspen thickets-pine timber, dead and fallen trees- steep hillsided and precipitous ravines. Every difficulty multipled by the darkness and only the stars for a guide, camp was finally reached at l :30 in the morning."

Forsyth said, " Command generally remained in camp all day. Four engineering parties went out in various directions to map the country. I accompanied General Custer, Col. Ludlow of the Engineers and three other gentlemen on an expedition to Harney's Peak."

Grant wrote, " Lay in camp all day. Several escorts sent out with engineers. Quite a party ascended Harney's Peak. Gold and silver said to have been found."

Winchell also wrote, " Custer Park. The expedition delays here a day or two to allow the animals to recuperate and to afford time for a reconnaissance into the Hills in different directions and to the Cheyenne South and East."

It is the author's belief that Illingsworth took advantage of this day to travel North to:

#33 Latitude N43 50 58
Longitude W103 37 55

Here several photographs, including, Turkey Rock and Pilot Knob were taken.

#34 Latitude N43 47 15
Longitude W103 37 19

Picture by Illingsworth #832 Sunshine and Shadow Mountain.