25TH AND 26TH DAY
(JULY 26TH) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874. THE TRAIL IS 14 MILES AND STARTS IN COLD CREEK AND TERMINATES AT THE CAMPGROUND FOR JULY 26TH AND 27TH AT THE JUNCTION OF SILVER CREEK AND CASTLE CREEK. THE MAPS COVERING THE ROUTE OF JULY 26TH ARE: BUCKHORN,WY QUADRANGLE; CROOKS TOWER QUADRANGLE;CROWS NEST PEAK QUADRANGLE, AND DEERFIELD QUADRANGLE.
THE CAMP OF JULY 25TH IS APPROXIMATELY 60 MILES FROM RAPID CITY. TAKE HWY 308 WEST FROM HILL CITY TO DEERFIELD LAKE. ONE MILE WEST OF DEERFIELD LAKE TAKE HWY 110 WEST TO 109. TURN RIGHT(NORTH) ON 109 FOR1 1/2 MILES TO THE JUNCTION OF 268 AND 109, THIS IS THE SAME READING AS #10 OF THIS DAYS JOURNEY (LATITUDE N44 07 48 AND LONGITUDE W1O4 01 03). A SUITABLE VEHICLE IS NECESSARY DUE TO THE ROUGHNESS OF THIS ROAD. DRIVE 2 MILES DOWN 268 TO 279, (THE SAME READING AS THE FOLLOWING #4...LATITUDE N44 08 22 AND LONGITUDE W104 00 38). A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN COLD CREEK (NORTH) WILL TAKE YOU TO THE CAMPSITE OF JULY 25TH,1874.
July 26th
#1 Latitude N44 08 35
Longitude W104 03 34
This is the reading reported by Ludlow. There appears to
be a discrepancy in this reading
#2 Latitude N44 08 33
Longitude W104 00 48
Custer stated, "The temperature of two of the many springs found flowing in to it [Spring Creek] was taken and ascertained to be 44 and 441/2 degrees respectively...The next morning, although loath to leave so enchanting a locality we continued to ascend this valley..."
According to Winchell, "We travel up this valley, the stream becoming very small, and at last, disappearing to a divide 4 miles from camp."
Grant also wrote, "...followed up the same valley, stream became larger and larger until it was quite a large mountain stream. Passed some very cold springs, temperature 44 and 441/2 degrees. Continued our march up this valley [Floral Spring] until we got to the summit which I should think was quite as high as Inyan Karra (sic) and was quite a park."
Forsyth wrote of this area, "Broke camp a 4:45 am, traveled up Floral Valley to the top of the range where it begins passing through some of the most exquisite site of park-like scenery I have ever seen."
#3 Latitude N44 08 34
Longitude W104 00 42
The trail is on the West side of Rd 268.
#4 Latitude N44 08 22
Longitude W104 00 38
This is the intersection of Rds 268 and 279. Turn left here, notice the ruts just East of the intersection, proceed up 279 to:
#5 Latitude N44 08 01
Longitude W104 00 21
The ruts are South of Rd 279.
#6 Latitude N44 07 53
Longitude W104 00 02
The ruts are South of the road.
#7 Latitude N44 07 53
Longitude W104 00 00
Look for evidence of the trail South of Rd 279 on the South edge of the drainage.
#8 Latitude N44 07 40
Longitude W103 59 39
The trail is South of Rd 279.
#9 Latitude N44 07 36
Longitude W103 59 27
The tracks are on the side of the hill South of Rd 279. From this point up to the saddle on the Cold Creek drainage is private land. Turn around and retrace the route to #4 Latitude N44 08 22 and Longitude W104 00 38. This is the intersection of Rds 268 and 279. Turn left (South) and drive 2 miles to the junction of 109 and 268.
#10 Latitude N44 07 48
Longitude W104 01 03
Take 109 South about 11/2 miles to the junction with 110. Turn left (East), drive about 3 miles to the junction of 110 and 117. Turn left (North) on 117.
#11 Latitude N44 05 29
Longitude W103 57 13
Proceed up Rd 117 passing by Oatman Spring to the reading of:
#12 Latitude N44 07 06
Longitude W103 57 43
At this reading car tracks can be seen approaching from the West, proceed on this trail to the next reading:
#13 Latitude N44 07 20
Longitude W103 58 06
The ruts are visible near the West edge of the woods. You are again on private land. 300 yards to the West is a saddle between the drainage of Cold Creek and the drainage you are now in.
#14 Latitude N44 07 18
Longitude W103 58 13
At this reading which is 1/4 mile to the Northwest, is a large spring one of two in the area called Freel Spring.
Grant said, "There are two springs, very cold, on the summit."
Custer also said, "We discovered that we were on the crest of the Western ridge of the Black Hills and instead of being among barren peaks as might be supposed, we found ourselves winding our way through a little park whose material beauty may well bear comparison with the loveliest portions of Central Park. Favored as we had been in having Floral Vallley for our roadway to the crest of the Black Hills valley which seemed to rise to meet us in the interior slope."
Return to Rd 117, turn left (North) about a 1/2 mile, the trail appears along the fence line left of Rd 117 at a reading of:
#15 Latitude N44 07 26
Longitude W103 57 32
#16 About 100 yards farther down the road the trail crosses
Rd 117 going East at a reading of:
Latitude N44 07 27
Longitude W103 57 24
Proceeding up this draw a short distance and on the edge of the woods, deep ruts from the expedition in 1874 can be seen.
#17 Latitude N44 07 22
Longitude W103 57 16
You may choose to follow the ruts over this saddle or you can return to Rd 117 stopping at Oatman Springs.
#18 Latitude N44 06 51
Longitude W103 57 01
This is the reading for Oatman Springs.
#19 Latitude N44 07 03
Longitude W103 57 10
The continuation of the trail can be found after a short walk to the North towards the saddle.
#20 Latitude N44 06 25
Longitude W103 56 57
The ruts are East of the road.
Forsyth said, "Upon leaving the crest of the watershed down which ran the creek we had last encamped upon, we found an old Indian trail which we followed up through a rocky defile which after various windings brought us into another valley somewhat larger than the one we had just left."
Winchell wrote, "Here the terrain begins a descent. At the divide which occurs in the great limestone formation the bottom of the valley is about 70 feet below the top of the formation which forms the surface of the country over a vast extent in this quarter."
#21 Latitude N44 06 04
Longitude W103 57 04
There are good ruts on the East side of Rd 117.
#22 Latitude N44 06 01
Longitude W103 57 13
Near the West edge of Rd 117, ruts are visible.
#23 Latitude N44 05 46
Longitude W103 57 16
At this reading Custer's trail crosses Rd 177 from the West side on the hill to the East. It also crosses the drainage and on the East side of the drainage is excellent evidence of the trail.
#24 Latitude N44 05 35
Longitude W103 57 17
The ruts can be seen on the West side of Rd 117 at the tree line. Proceed South on Rd 117 to the intersection of 117 and 110, turn left (East) on Rd 110 at the same reading as #11 Latitude N44 05 29 and Longitude W103 57 13.
#25 Latitude N44 05 14
Longitude W103 56 25
The tracks are 25 feet South of the fence line.
This can be confirmed by Grant's journal, "From here we took a valley which we call Castle Creek Valley and after going several miles down it we came upon large springs of water which made a very large stream."
Forsyth wrote, "This brought us in to another valley somewhat larger than the one we had just left with a fine stream of water running in just the direction we wished, viz., Southeast and in directly the opposite direction from the stream we had just left."
According to Custer, "The rippling stream of clear, cold water, the counterpart of what we had ascended the day before flowed at our feet and pointed out the way before us while along its banks grew beautiful flowers surpassed but little in beauty and profusion by their sisters who had greeted us the day before."
#26 Latitude N44 05 13
Longitude W103 55 26
The tracks are 100 yards South of Rd 110. The swampy nature of the soil in this area has a tendency, with time, to obliterate tracks.
#27 Latitude N44 05 01
Longitude W103 55 07
The tracks are South of Rd 110 beyond the edge of the creek.
#28 Latitude N44 04 17
Longitude W103 54 30
Illingsworth took three pictures in this area, two are shot from the cliffs on the Northeast side of Rd 117 and the other is looking South, about on the site of the present road.
Ludlow wrote, "The hills became gradually higher and the valley wider. The beaver had made frequent dams and their labors occasionally added to those of the pioneers in making a road for the wagons."
The pioneers, to which Ludlow refers, were equivalent to present day Combat Engineers.
Winchell stated, "The bluff is but one of a series of equal height like immense castle tops that seemed to enclose and guard the valley whence it was named Castle Valley."
The wagon train in the picture taken by Illingsworth is apparently hung up by the springs in this area allowing sufficient time for Illingsworth to ascend the bluffs to the East to set up his equipment and take two pictures.
#29 Latitude N44 03 16
Longitude W103 53 11
There is evidence of the trail under the old road. This is South, down the hill from Rd 110.
#30 Latitude N44 02 25
Longitude W103 51 38
This is the Miller Road. Turn right (Southwest) and proceed across Castle Creek to the following reading:
#31 Latitude N44 02 18
Longitude W103 51 43
This reading is on private land. Ruts can be seen indicating travel to the South.
#32 Latitude N44 02 16
Longitude W103 51 40
There is a continuation of the ruts near the fence line.
#33 Latitude N44 02 00
Longitude W103 51 24
The ruts indicate that the trail is leading to the campground of July 26th and 27th.
#34 Latitude N44 01 45
Longitude W103 51 20
This is Ludlow's reading for the campground of July 26th and 27th. This is where Silver Creek enters Castle Creek.
Custer stated, "After advancing down this valley about 14 miles our course being almost Southeast, we encamped amidst of grazing, whose only fault if any, was great luxuriance. Having preceeded the main column, as usual, with an escort of two companies of Cavalry E and C and Lt. Wallace's detachment of scouts I came upon an Indian campfire still burning and which with other indications showed that a small party of Indians had encamped here the previous night and had evidently left that morning in ignorance of our close proximity. Believing they would not move far and that a collision might take place at any time unless a friendly understanding was arrived at. I sent my head scout, "Bloody Knife", and 20 of his braves to advance a few miles and reconnoitre (sic) the valley. This party had been gone but a few minutes when two of Bloody Knife's young men came galloping back and informed me that they had discoverd five Indian lodges a few miles down the valley and that Bloody Knife, as directed, had concealed his party in a wooden ravine where they awaited further orders. Taking a company with me which was afterwards reinforced by the remainder of the scouts and Col. Hart's company, I proceeded to the ravine where Bloody Knife and his party lay concealed and from the crest beyond obtained a full view of the five Indian lodges about which a considerable number of ponies were grazing. I was enabled to place my command still nearer to the lodges undiscovered, I then dispatched a guard, the interpreter with a flag of truce accompanied by two of our Sioux scouts to acquaint the occupants of the lodge that we were friendly disposed and desired to communicate with them. To prevent either treachery or flight on their part, I galloped the remaining portion of my advance and surrounded the lodges. This was accomplished almost before they were aware of our presence. I then entered the little village and shook hands with the occupants, assuring them, through the interpreter, that they had no cause to fear, as we were not there to molest them. I invited them to visit our camp, and promised presents of flour, sugar and coffee to all who would accept. This invitation was accepted. At the same time I entered into an agreement with the leading men that they should encamp with us a few days and give us such information concerning the country as we might desire; in return for which service, I was to reward them with rations. With this understanding I left them. The entire party numbered 27. Later in the afternoon, four of the men, including the chief, One Stab, visited our camp and desired the promised rations, saying that the entire party would move up and join us the following morning as agreed upon. I ordered presents of sugar, coffee, and bacon to be given to them, and to relieve them of the pretended anxiety of the safety of their village during the night, I ordered a party of 15 of my command to return with them and protect them during the night. But from their disinclination to wait a few minutes till the party could saddle up, and from the fact that two of the four had already slipped away, I was of opinion that they were not acting in good faith. In this I was confirmed when the two remaining ones set off at a gallop in the direction of their village. I sent a party of our scouts to overtake them and request them to return. Not complying with this request, I sent a second party with orders to repeat the request, and if not complied with, then to take hold of the bridles of their ponies and lead them back, but to offer no violence. When overtaken by our scouts, one of the two Indians seized the musket of one of the scouts and endeavored to wrest it from him. Failing in this he released his after the scout became dismounted in the struggle, and set off as fast as his pony could carry him. But not before the musket of the scout was discharged. From blood discovered afterward it was evident that either the Indian or his pony was wounded. I hoped that neither was seriously hurt, although the Indians have their own bad faith, One Stab the chief, was brought back to camp. The Scouts galloped down the valley to the site of the village when it was discovered that the entire party had packed up the lodges and fled and the visit of the four Indians to our camp was not only to obtain the rations promised them in return for future services but to cover the flight of the lodges. I have affected arrangements by which Chief One Stab will be with us as a guide for three days longer when he will take his departure and rejoin his band. He claims to belong to both Red Cloud's and Spotted Tail's agencies, but has been to neither for a long time. He has recently returned from the hostile river on Ponder River [Powder River] and represents that the indians lost ten killed in their fights with the Boseman exploring party."
Ludlow wrote in his journal, "From a high hill near camp, the first well defined view was gained of Harney Peak twenty miles to the Southeast. The position of this peak and on the Southeast slope of the hills was known from Warren's map. We are nearly in the heart of the unexplored portion of the hills and the result of energy and good management has been shown in the entire success of the expedition."
The geologist, Hayden, accompanied Lt. Gouvenour K. Warren on an exploration of the fringes of the Black Hills in 1857. They noted gold flakes in French Creek where it leaves the hills. By locating Harney Peak, Custer's expedition could determine the location of French Creek which was their destination.
Grant stated, "At this camp, a ledge of quartz rock was found which the miners claimed to be silver ore. But I could see nothing in it but a little mica schist and plumbago."
Forsyth wrote, "In camp all day. Four exploring parties out surveying and mapping the country. Miners with the party report indications of silver in quartz rock along the banks of the creek."
Illingsworth had time to take numerous pictures of the area
during the two day camp.