24TH DAY
(JULY 25TH) OF CUSTER'S EXPEDITION TO THE BLACK HILLS IN 1874.
THE DAYS RUN WAS 11 1/2 MILES STARTING IN COLD SPRINGS CREEK AND
TERMINATING IN COLD CREEK. THEY FOLLOWED A CONTINUOUS VALLEY
THE STARTING POINT AT COLD SPRINGS CREEK IS APPROXIMATELY 85 MILES
FROM RAPID CITY. TO FIND THE CAMPSITE OF JULY 24TH, TAKE I-90
WEST FROM RAPID CITY TO EXIT 17 (RD TO DEADWOOD). TURN SOUTH
ON HWY 85 AND PROCEED TO BUCKHORN, WY WHICH IS ABOUT 2 MILES SOUTHWEST
OF THE STATE LINE. TURN RIGHT (LATITUDE N44 08 56 AND LONGITUDE
W104 05 07) OR WEST, ON THE BUCKHORN/MOSKEE RD. AN UNMARKED
ROAD LEADING DOWN THE COLD SPRINGS CREEK DRAINAGE TO THE HOMESTAKE
PROPERTIES. SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF THE INTERSECTION AT HWY 85
AND THE BUCKHORN/MOSKEE RD IS THE DESIGNATED CAMPSITE OF JULY
24TH.
#1 Latitude N44 12 10
Longitude W104 09 01
This is a designated campground of July 24,1874.
Custer confirms this by writing, "On the following day we
resumed our march up this valley which I had explored several
miles the preceeding evening and which led us by an easy ascent
almost Southeast. After marching nearly 12 miles we encamped
at an early hour in the same valley. This valley, in one respect
presented the most wonderful, as well as,beautiful aspect. Its
equal I have never seen, and such too was the testimony of all
who beheld it. In no private or public parks have I ever seen
such as profuse display of flowers. Every step of our march that
day was amidst flowers of the most exquisite colors and perfume
so luxuriant in growth were they that men plucked them without
dismounting from the saddle..."
From this reading, proceed upsteam towards Buckhorn,WY.
#2 Latitude N44 12 42
Longitude W104 11 30
This is Ludlow's recorded reading for the campsite of July 24,1874. This reading is on high ground to the West and North of the campground described above by Custer.
#3 Latitude N44 11 16
Longitude W104 08 18
Ruts are visible 75 feet West of the road.
#4 Latitude N44 10 26
Longitude W104 07 57
Custer's trail is West of the road.
Ludlow stated, "The course ascended this valley to the Southeast. The hills were limestone, covered with pine and from 150-300 feet in height. The valley from 100-300 yards wide and filled with the greatest profusion of wild flowers in almost incredible numbers and variety. General Custer named it Floral Valley. As we ascended through these beds of color the hills became lower and tamarack and spruce appeared on the slopes."
#5 Latitude N44 09 32
Longitude W104 06 56
The ruts are Southwest of the road.
According to Winchell, "leaving camp, we pass on up the same valley, crossing the stream occasionally as it swings from one side to the other. We find it the same as yesterday, very profusely covered with flowers. The timber of the hills is Norway pine, in the valley bordering the grass belt is trembling [quaking] aspen, some of which is four to eight inches in diameter, but the greater portion very shrubby. The pine is rather small and will not be molested for a great many years."
#6 Latitude N44 08 56
Longitude W104 05 13
The ruts are visible in the swampy area 75 feet North of the
road.
#7 Latitude N44 09 06
Longitude W104 04 59
The ruts are near the fence North of Hwy 85 about 300 yards Northeast of Buckhorn,Wy. Turn right (South) off Hwy 85 on Rd 109 at the following reading:
#8 Latitude N44 09 15
Longitude W104 04 37
Proceed on Rd 109 for about 300 yards and turn left (East), drive in about 100 yards at a reading of:
#9 Latitude N44 09 14
Longitude W104 04 27
The ruts can be seen North of the fence. Return to Rd 109 and drive up the hill to Rd 168 at a reading of:
#10 Latitude N44 09 17
Longitude W104 03 55
Turn left. Proceed down the hill and cross Cold Springs Creek. You should now be on Rd 268. Drive a short distance upstream to the next reading:
#11 Latitude N44 09 31
Longitude W104 03 37`
South of the road is evidence of the trail under and alongside an old road.
Grant wrote, "Followed up the same valley, the stream became larger and larger until it was quite a large mountain stream. Passed some very cold springs, temperature 44 and 441'2 degrees. The valley has been named Floral Valley."
#12 Latitude N44 09 30
Longitude W104 03 30
There are good tracks South of Rd 268.
According to Forsyth, "Moved at 4:30 a.m. directly up the valley, crossing the creek which kept growing larger all the time, no less than six times as it seemed to delight in meandering across the valley as often as possible. Today's march has been the pleasantest I have ever yet made. The whole valley is carpeted with flowers, I have gathered 17 varieties within 20 square feet. And the view along the valley, as it first widened and then contracted and widened again with the murmuring waters of the brook constantly at our feet has been exceedingly pleasant and attractive and especially so when looking back at some of the hot dusty days along the Little Missouri Valley and across the plains."
#13 Latitude N44 09 26
Longitude W104 03 14
The tracks are on the side of the hill, 50 yards Southwest of Rd 268.
#14 Latitude N44 09 22
Longitude W104 03 02
The ruts are in large meadow between Rd 268 and Cold Springs Creek.
#15 Latitude N44 09 18
Longitude W104 02 34
The ruts are South of Rd 268.
#16 Latitude N44 09 14
Longitude W104 01 27
Signs of the old trail are 75 feet South of Rd 268
#17 Latitude N44 09 06
Longitude W104 01 08
This is the intersection of Rd 268 and Rd 267. This is also where Cold Creek enters Cold Springs Creek. Custer's wagon-train proceeded up Cold Creek.
Winchell confirmed this by writing in his journal, "After passing about 9 miles from camp up this valley, a change occurs in the contour of the hills and indicates a corresponding change in the rocky structures. At the same time,I see the first of a species of spruce. The sandstone is here seen to form in the distance of a quarter of a mile, a synclinal, the opposite angles of a slope being plainly exhibited in the face of the left-hand bluffs. Very soon, a very prominent upheaval of limestone also appears on the left." Winchell continues "The beautiful stream from which the Indians call the valley, Minne-Lusa or Running Water Valley, disappears again about three miles above the place of appearance of the limestone formation and simply an overland,dry channel can be seen. On searching, I find the stream which carries as much water as the Belle Fourche where we crossed it, rises in a series of springs within the area of 1/2 acre. The channel, however, a mile above has again a little water and here we make camp about twelve miles from last night's camp the road having been all day rapidly ascending but obstructed by necessary crossing of the creek."
Custer also wrote, "Through this beautiful valley meanders a stream of crystal water, so cold as to render ice undesirable even at noon-day. The temperature of two of many springs found flowing into it was taken and ascertained to be 44 and 441'2 degrees respectively."
Ludlow stated, "The valley rose rapidly but smoothly and the visible stream increased to 4 feet in width and 8 or 9 inches in depth, of a beautiful cleaness and very swift flow. Farther up it disappeared to appear again. It seemed to terminate in several springs above which a dry bed only was seen."
#18 Latitude N44 08 48
Longitude W104 00 51
The tracks are 50 yards West of Rd 268. The original ruts are Custer's and later on, in 1875-76 the trail was used by the Cheyenne to Deadwood Stage and possibly, the Salt Trail from Cambria, Wy to Galena, SD in the 1880's.
#19 Latitude N44 08 33
Longitude W104 00 48
This is the designated campsite of the Expedition July 25,1874. This is also the area of the springs that are the greater source of Cold Creek and Cold Springs Creek.
According to Forsyth, "We found that we had reached the head, some six or eight beautiful springs within a radius of 300 feet, formed at once a stream sufficient to turn a mill but which 20 miles further down entirely disappeared by sinking into the sandy soil. A half mile further up we came to another spring upon which we are now encamped Wood and water are in abundance but the vast quantity of flowers crowds out the grasses and the grazing is only fair. We have traveled almost South today and have made about twelve miles."
Ludlow wrote, "An old and deeply cut lodge trail ran up the valley and halting the command the valley leading out of Floral Valley was explored. The trail is said by one of the guides, to be the old voyager pack trail and is one of the regular routes between the hostile camp on Tongue River and the agencies. Near the highest point, many old camps and abandoned lodge poles were seen. Pursuing the lodge trail, a spring was reached, the waters of which flowed North and East."
This trail will lead you to the intersection of Rd 109 and 268 at a reading of:
#20 Latitude N44 07 48
Longitude W104 01 03
#21 Latitude N44 08 35
Longitude W104 03 34
This is Ludlow's recorded reading for July 25,1874. This
is about 2 miles West of the described campground.